Tag: england

Another Place: a sunny coastal walk in Merseyside with Anthony Gormley’s statues

A fab walk whether you live in Liverpool or visiting from further away. It is accessible by public transport.
Mixing sandy beaches, enchanting woodlands and art just a stone-throw from Liverpool city centre.

A very sunny day walking from Formby to Crosby in Merseyside. A mix of sandy beaches and dunes, some woodland and the wonderful art of Anthony Gormley's 100 statues ! Nearly 12 miles but flat. Accessible by public transports. — Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

Stats

Difficulty	Moderate
Length	11.5 mi – 18.7 km
Total elevation	673 ft – 205m
Highest point	44ft – 13m
Walking time	4h20
Terrain	Sand, paths and Streets
Equipment	Water-shoes if you fancy walking in the water. Beware it some places are more mud than sands. Enough water to last you 11 miles or 5 hours. There may be an ice-cream van half way but it is not a guarantee.

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Getting there

Driving: Park at Formby Merseyrail station (free for rail users; and you will be getting the Merseyrail back)
Public transport: Formby Merseyrail station
From Preston: X2 bus to Southport then merseyrail to Formby (c. 1h45)
From Manchester: Train from Piccadilly to Lime Street, then Merseyrail from Central to Formby (c.1h40) or Train from Victoria to Southport then Merseyrail to Formby
From Chester: Merseyrail to Moorfields then to Formby

Watering Holes

Unfortunately, there are no pubs en route of this walk. You may find an ice-cream van about half way through.
However, make a long day or week-end of it and get into Liverpool. The world becomes your oyster !

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

Liverpool is an amazing city with everything you could wish for: beaches (along this walk), vibrant culture and history, plenty of options to wine and dine. And most important of all: it’s people ! I have worked in Liverpool and always loved the Scouse mentality. Very down to earth, welcoming and friendly.

For the small budgets: YHA Albert Dock
I am often reluctant to stay in YHAs in city-centre. But this particular one is fab. It offers dorm rooms as well as comfortable doubles. The kitchen is usually very clean, the staff incredibly welcoming and it is located in a fab part of the centre. There is a comfy TV room if you are exhausted at the end of the day and the bar is usually quiet.
The reason I usually avoid city-centre hostels are party-groups. I know this one can get a bit more rowdy at week-ends but is a haven of peace during the week. You will mostly find school-groups and families staying there.

To combine with a night out at the Rope Walk: The Resident Liverpool
At the heart of the trendy Rope Walk the place remains a heaven of peace.
Excellent value and rooms have kitchenettes; allowing you to stock your packed lunches and cold drinks for the walk.

For some luxury: InnSide by Melia
Very central but away from the hustle and bustle. Perfect for a comfortable week-end of hiking combined with museums and sightseeing. Some rooms have views on the water and all rooms are very comfortable. Just one downside for me … Open-plan bathrooms still seem to be in trend but personally, this is a huge turn-off for me.

September 5, 2024

High Cup Nick – A Wainwright’s favourite in the North Pennines with a pub

High Cup nick is dramatic U-shaped valley or “nick” at the head of High Cup Gill in the North Pennines.
It was one of Alfred Wainwright’s favourite feature on the Pennine Way.
Start this walk from Dufton, walking up to the top and scramble down High Cup Gill. The views of the Eden Valley are as impressive from the top as they are from the valley.

Stats

Difficulty	Moderate with technical section (Scramble down)
Length	10.8 mi – 17.4 km
Total elevation	1,827 ft – 557m
Highest point	1,888ft – 575m
Walking time	4h20
Terrain	paths, roads, boulder field (scramble down)
Equipment	Enough water to walk 11 miles or 4h30. There is a pub at the Beginning and the end but nothing in between. Sturdy shoes or boots as you will be scrambling down a boulder field. Layers as it can get exposed and chilly on top

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Getting there

Driving: The car park in Dufton: honesty box for payment and toilets.
Public transport: Kendal Bus X6 to the Approach stop (C. 20 mins)
From Manchester: Train to Carnforth then bus 755 to the Approach stop (c. 2h05)
From Preston: Train to Arnside then bus 552 to the Approach Stop (c. 1h50)
From Lancaster: Bus 555 to Ashbank lane stop (c. 45mins)
From Carlisle: Train to Kendal then Bus 555 to Ashbank lane stop (c. 1h35)

Watering Holes

The Stag Inn – Dufton – At the start or end of the walk
A wonderful independent country pub where muddy boots and paws are welcome.
Home-cooked food and good ales. The kitchen is open Tue-Sat from 17:30-20:00 and Sun from 12:00-14:00 and 17:00-19:00. Expect pub classics including delicious pies as well as more gastro-type dishes such as confit duck-leg or teriyaki tuna steaks.
Beer garden with stunning views over the Pennines for the summer and roaring wood-fires to warm up in winter.

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

Dufton is a stop on the Pennine Way and offers a range of accommodation for those wishing to stay before or after the walk.
Ufortunately, the YHA has closed.

For camping and glamping: Dufton Caravan Park
Grass pitches for tents, hard-standing pitches for caravan and motor-homes and 3 hobbit huts for glampers.
Hot showers, drying room, and electric hookups.
The village’s cafe is 200 yards from the site and the pub only 300 yards.

For a romantic week-end Sunday: Dufton Barn Holidays Shepherd’s view is the luxurious option for couples with a super-king sized bed and jacuzzi bath (as well as a walk-in shower). Cozy log-burner and fab views over the Pennines.minimum booking policy.

For families and or 2 couples: Brow Farm – Dufton
Offers a traditional cottage with 2 double bedrooms. A 2 nights minimum booking may apply.

August 31, 2024

Great and Little Langdale – A low level Lake District walk with 4 pubs, 1 swim and a Cathedral

About 11 miles of stunning scenery in the Lake Districts. Low-level walk from Elterwater via The New Dungeon Ghyll and Old Dungeon Ghyll, Blea Tarn, Cathedral Cave and Little Langdale. 4 pubs along the route, Blea Tarn is perfect for a swim and Cathedral Cave a unique place to explore.

Stats

Difficulty	Moderate to strenuous (Distance and total elevation)
Length	11 mi – 17.7 km
Total elevation	2,785 ft – 849m
Highest point	1,109 ft – 338m
Walking time	2h40
Terrain	Paths, roads and footpaths
Equipment	No technical sections on this walk but you will need closed shoes or boots to keep you comfortable for 11 miles ! If you like to swim, don’t forget your swimsuit and towel for Blea Tarn

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Getting there

Driving: There are 3 car parks in Elterwater but all fee-paying. But there is a free car park at Stickle Ghyll
Public transport:
From Preston: X8 bus to Ambleside Interchange then bus 516 to Dungeon Ghyll (c. 1h55)
Contact me for other routes

Watering Holes

The Walkers Bar at the New Dungeon Ghyll – Langdale – c. 2.7 mi into the walk (c. 1h15 mins)
Belongs to the Red Cat Pub company.
Muddy boots and paws friendly.Has a beer garden for the summer and open fire in winter
Excellent ales. and the food is locally sourced. Gastro-pub rather than classics.
The kitchen is open all day Friday and Saturday from 12:00-21:00 and Sunday 12:00-20:00. Check the website of FB page for weekdays opening hours.
The Climber’s bar at the Old Dungeon Ghyll – Great Langdale – c. 3.4 mi into the walk (c. 1h30 mins)
The Original Inn the Langdale Valley, has hosted an array of Everest Climbers on their training and still family owned.
Without a doubt, my favorite in the area. Muddy boots and paws are more than welcome.
If you are looking for luxury, do not stop. But walkers, hikers, mountaineers, fell-runners and any other hard-core outdoors enthusiasts will alway feel at home (and be welcome as much)
Some outdoors seating in the summer and roaring open-fire in the winter.
The food is home-cooked and very fairly priced. Soup and sandwiches for lunch (12:30-17:00) and pub classics, including excellent pies for supper (17:00-20:00 Sun to Thurs and till 20:30 Fri & Sat)
As the owner is a keen musician; there are open session every Wednesday at 19:30
The Three Shires Inn – Little Langdale – c. 8.6 mi into the walk (c. 3h55 mins)
An independent traditional Inn. Muddy boots and paws are welcome.
Outdoor seating for the summer and roaring fireplace in the winter,
Good selection of ales from Cumbria and food made with local produce.
The kitchen is open 12:00-14:30 and 17:30-20:00
Expect sandwiches and pub-classics at lunch and gastro-pub type dishes in the evening.
The Britannia Inn – Eltermere – At the end of the walk
A wonderful family run traditional Inn. Welcoming muddy boots and paws.
Cask Mark ales and delicious home-made food.
Beer garden for the summer and roaring open fires in winter.
Kitchen is open from 12:00-14:00, Soup and Sandwiches 14:00-16:00 and dinner 17:30-20:30

Make a week-end of it

The Langdales are in the very centre of the Lake Districts.
Unlike Ambleside or Keswick, you won’t find a wide range of shops and restaurants.
But still plenty of outdoor activities to keep you busy for a full week-end.
Needless to say, there are numerous walks from low level to mountain hikes taking in Harrison Stickle, Pavey Ark or Crinkle Crags.
But there also are disused quarries with caves; the most famous being Cathedral Cave. And plenty of good spots for wild swimming. Blea tarn is easily accessible and if you want to climb up; Stickle tarn is a wonderful place to take a dip.

For the budget conscious: Eltewater Hostel in Elterwater has shared dorms and private rooms.
It only sleeps 38 people in total. And can be booked as a group.
Should the weather let you down; there is a drying room.
It offers both breakfast and home-cooked evening meals as well as a self-catering kitchen.
And being so close to town; there are a couple of pubs within walking distance.

For comfort: The Old Dungeon Ghyll in Great Langdale
My favorite hotel in the whole of the Lake District area. A family run business with Olde Worlde character.
The rooms are very cosy and some have amazing views. Each room is different but not all rooms are ensuite.
Breakfast is always included in the price. And I am told that it now has has super-fast wifi. (The last time I was there, the wifi was very spotty and the phone signal in the Valley is mostly non-existent.
Dogs are welcome to stay for a small supplement.
For food and drinks, check the details in the section above. Again, one of my favorite but best suited for outdoor enthusiast (with a plus if you enjoy music) than someone looking for luxury and glamour.

For Camping: Great Langdale Campsite offers grass pitches for tents, hardstanding pitches with electric hookups for camper vans and Owned by the National Trust, it is family friendly and well equipped.

For groups: The Great Langdale Bunkhouse – behind the New Dungeon Ghyll
Sleeps 18 divided into 3 twin rooms and two rooms of 6 (all bunk beds).
Equipped with biomass central heating and hot water with powerful showers.
Separate male and female shows and toilet facilities.
There are no self-catering options but a tavern, the New Dungeon Ghyll and Stickle Barn on its doorstep.

August 13, 2024

Marsden, Black Hill and Black Moss – 14 miles in the South Pennines, West Yorkshire

A 14 miles hike from the very pretty village of Marsden in the South Pennines in West Yorkshire (Edge of the Peak Districts). Take in the picturesque Butterly Reservoir, Black Hill, moorlands extending as far as you could see and Back Moss. — Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

Stats

Difficulty	Strenuous (From the distance)
Length	14.2 mi – 23 km
Total elevation	2,733 ft – 833m
Highest point	1, 897 ft – 578m
Walking time	5h20
Terrain	Paths, footpaths and moors
Equipment	Sufficient water for 14 miles (no pubs or shops en-route on this one) ; good waterproof shoes as the moors are boggy

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Getting there

Driving: There is a free car-park on Station Road and one on Argyle street
Public transport:
From Manchester: Direct train from Piccadilly (Takes less than half an hour!). Alternatively, take the train from Victoria and change at Huddersfield
From Preston: Train to Manchester Piccadilly and then train to Marsden (c. 1h40)
From Leeds: Train to Huddersfield and then train to Marsden (c. 55 mins)
From York: Direct trains to Marsden (c. 1h10)
From Sheffield: Train to Huddersfield and then train to Marsden (c. 1h30)
Contact me for other routes

Watering Holes

The Riverhead Brewery tap – Marsden- after the hike.
Part of the Ossett Brewery – The pub makes some of its own ale on site. And also stocks some local favorite such as Butterly and Redbrook. (Named after the local reservoirs)
Probably my favorite for beer in Marsden. But beware this is a trendy micro-brewery rather than quaint village pub. It does serve food but trendy Asian fusion (i.e Bao Buns) rather than your traditional pub fare.
There is outside seating if the sun is shining.
The New Inn – Marsden – after the hike of pubs and cafes in Haworth
If you are after something more traditional and a great Sunday lunch; this is the place to go to in Marsden.
A traditional Country pub with roaring fire in the winter and a beer garden in summer. Muddy boots and paws are always welcome.
The food is traditional, uses local ingredients and home-cooked. Served Mon-Thu from 17:00 to 20:00, from 12:00 to 20:00 on Fri & Sat and 12:00-19:00 on Sundays.

Make a week-end of it

Marsden is a very pleasant village in the South Pennines.
Being on the edge of the Peak Districts; there are plenty of walks that can be started from Marsden.
And the village has enough coffee shops, pubs, bars and restaurant to keep you entertained for the week-end. Being minutes away from Leeds, and easily accessible by public transport; yet with beautiful country surrounding it will cater for a very wide crowd.
Suprisingly, there isn’t a wide range of accommodation in Marsden.

The New Inn does offer 6 cosy rooms above the pub. Check the Watering Holes section for more details.

There are a few self-catering options for families and groups of friend. Check AirBnB and Booking for options.
There are a couple in the centre of the village. But for a real county-side week-end; my favorite is about 35 mins walk from the centre.
Hey Farm Barn: It sleeps 2 people in the bedroom and can accommodate a further two people or children on the sofa-bed. Plenty of walking and cycling from its door-step.

July 20, 2024

Lake District – Scout Scar: A castle, a cafe at the dairy parlor and a pub

This low-level walk near Kendal is under 10miles but punches above its weight. It takes in a medieval castle owned by the National Trust, a cafe and farm-shop where you watch the cows being milked and a pub that serves delicious food.

Scout Scar is a Wainwright Outlying Fell in the Lake District. This is a walk 10 miles walk starting from Sizergh, near Kendal (South Lakes). It also takes in a Medieval castle run by the National Trust, a farm-shop at a dairy parlor where you can watch the milking and the Strickland Arms pub — Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

Stats

Difficulty	Moderate
Length	10 mi – 16.2 km
Total elevation	1,506 ft – 459m
Highest point	735ft – 224m
Walking time	4h15
Terrain	paths, roads, walking paths, streets
Equipment	Enough water to walk 8 miles or 3h30. There is a cafe at the Beginning and the end but nothing in between.

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Getting there

Driving: 6 free car-parks along the way: On Nannypie Lane before the Stricklands Arm / Near St John’s Church Helsington / Underbarrow Road before the paid Scout-scar car-park / Brigsteer Road / Scroggs Lane / Hawes Lane
Public transport: Kendal Bus X6 to the Approach stop (C. 20 mins)
From Manchester: Train to Carnforth then bus 755 to the Approach stop (c. 2h05)
From Preston: Train to Arnside then bus 552 to the Approach Stop (c. 1h50)
From Lancaster: Bus 555 to Ashbank lane stop (c. 45mins)
From Carlisle: Train to Kendal then Bus 555 to Ashbank lane stop (c. 1h35)

Watering Holes

The cafe at Sizergh Castle – Sizergh – C. half a mile after the start (15 mins).
National Trust Cafe
This is handy if you have forgotten water, your lunch or want a perk me up coffee before starting the walk.
Wheatsheaf Inn – Brigsteer – Technically not on the original route, but worth the small detour. It would only be 2.29 miles in (c. 1h00) and would add an extra mile to your walk. Happy to customize the gpx, AllTrails or Komoot to include on the route.
Owned by Robinsons breweries. This cosy tenanted pub offers good ales, pies, pub classics and sandwiches; a beer garden for the summer and a roaring log-fire in the winter. Food served from 12:00-15:00 and 17:00-20:00 Monday – Thursday and 12:00 to 20:00 on Friday to Sunday. The pub also has 6 rooms. (See below sections). Muddy paws and boots are always welcome.
Romneys – Helsington / Kendal – Again, not on the route but a detour worth making. This would be at the 6.5 miles (c. 3 hrs) and would add an extra mile to the walk.
It is a traditional Cumbrian pub with rooms. The local ale and food with delicious pub classics, carvery on Sunday. Prices are very reasonable for the area and there are several options in the children’s menu.
Beer garden with a children’s play area, log-fire for the winter and dogs are welcome. The pub also offers accommodation (see below section for details)
Low Sizergh Barn Cafe – Sizergh – C. 9.2 miles after the start (4h00).
The best one if you are walking with the kids – A dairy parlor where you can watch the cows being milked at 15:30.
Delicious ice-creams, farm-shop and the raw milk is on sale.
The Strickland Arms – Sizergh – At the end (or beginning) of the walk.
The best for gourmets – it is listed in Michelin and Good Food guide. The food is home-made and cooked to order. The ale is just as good and the pub recommended by the good beer guide. A favorite with the locals and dog-owners. It is a very cosy pub with a large beer-garden, outside dining with a view and a roaring fire.

Make a week-end of it – Why South Lakes and Kendal ?

For those who have never visited the Lake Districts, Kendal is not a bad place to start from. The first largest town in the National Park, yet less crowded with tourists and more down to earth than Windermere. You will find the genuine cumbrian hospitality that made the region, a good selection of places to eat and drink; shops for the outdoors enthusiast offering better value than their counter-parts in Ambleside and further north. A farmer’s market and great brewery for the foodies. There is an array of scenic low-level walks in the area and good bus connections to the Lakes.

For the seasoned mountaineers and fell-walkers a wet and cold day on the fells is not always a pleasant experience. Whether you have ticked all all your Wainwrights already you do not fancy a high-level walk with poor visibility on a day where the weather is unkind; the outlying fells are perfect to keep you ticking.

For the culture enthusiasts there are multitude of place to visit around Kendal: Sizergh Castle, a medieval castle owned by the National Trust; the Levens Hall, an Elizabethan country manor with gardens and a deer park; Abbot Hall art gallery for fine art from the 18th-20th century and last but not least, the Kendal Museum with its collections of Natural History, Cumbrian history and World Wildlife gallery

For the adventurers: Kendal has a climbing hall, Adventure Makers has a meeting point not far from the climbing centre and offers guides to take you Ghyll scrambling, Canyoning, and caving.

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

For walkers: The Weatsheaf Inn
The Inn has 6 cosy rooms above its pub

For a lazy Sunday: Romneys in Helsington offers 5 self-catering cottages and 5 snugs. Very close to both Kendal town centre and the walk route. Stay overnight and enjoy an amazing Sunday Lunch at the pub.

For the campers and families: Sizergh Barn and Farm – tent and caravan pitches as well as a glamping pods that sleeps 4 and has a kitchenette.
Enjoy the walk, a visit to Sizergh Castle with a unique stay on an Organic Dairy farm. It has an award winning farm shop and cafe. Sells raw milk and you can watch the cows being milked everyday at 15:30.

July 15, 2024