Peregrinating the North West and Beyond

Tag: France

  • France – Overlooking the azure of Salagou: 7 miles – A Dolomitic Detour to Lunch in Mourèze from Liausson

    This circular 7 miles hike from Liausson to Mourèze offers a rich blend of natural drama and quiet charm. Starting with panoramic views over the deep blue waters of Lac du Salagou, the route winds through the typical shrubland ecosystem of the Mediterranean region (la garrigue) before descending into the surreal dolomitic landscape of the Cirque de Mourèze. Here, twisted limestone towers rise like guardians of the garrigue and invite your to explore. Mid-way, you will find the village of Mourèze, where a home-cooked lunch at a family run restaurant awaits. Grab a table under the shade of plane trees and enjoy a perfect pause before making your way back towards Liausson, with ever-changing views of red earth, silver rock, and brilliant blue lake below.

    Click on this image to open the full walkthrough video with photographs. This picture shows the Lac du Salagou
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video
    Click on this picture to open the full route on Komoot. This photograph shows the dolomitic formations around the Cirque de Moureze
    Click on the picture to see or download the route on Komoot

    Stats
    DifficultyModerate – No technical skills required. But a fair amount of Elevation. And some alpine paths. There is a very mild scramble section.
    Length6.4 mi – 10 km
    Total elevation
    1,506 ft – 460m
    Highest point1,560 ft – 475m
    Walking time3h30
    TerrainWalking paths, Alpine paths (including some very mild scramble), streets
    EquipmentEnough water to walk for 4 hrs. Although you may find a water fountain and several cafes / shops in Moureze (after 4.5 mi.)
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    This photograph shows the GPX route. Do not hesitate to contact me for the full route on GPX file, or as a link on Komoot or AllTrails
    Send me a message on Instagram or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

    Getting there
    • Driving: Free car-park in Liausson
    • Public transport: Sadly, this walk cannot be accessed by public transport.


    Watering Holes
    • O Cirque – Moureze – (4.5 miles into the walk)
      A fantastic family-run restaurant with indoors and outdoors seating.
      It is in a quiet spot.
      The house specialty is lamb-tajine with apricots. But you will also find: tapas, salads, classic French dishes and vegetarian food..
      Everything is home-made with fresh products.
      Open Thursday to Tuesday from 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-21:00
    • Flor de Salagou – Moureze – (4.5 miles into the walk)
      A tapas bar and epicerie.
      Open from 10:30-18:30 every day.
      You will find small tapas and planchettes (large selection of cheese and/or cured meat) and ice-cream.
      And can also purchase some local produce and preserves.
    • Le Petit Creux – Moureze – (4.5 miles into the walk)
      A creperie (pancake cafe).
      As well as pancakes, they serve some sandwiches (panini) hot and cold drinks.
      The opening hours do vary depending on the season.

    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

    For camping and clamping: Lac du Salagou Camping Club – Clermont l’Herault (1.8 mi from Liausson)
    Pitches available for tents, caravans, campers and mobile homes.
    They also have 3 different types of static caravans and glamping units.
    It has a large outdoor pool, a paddling pool and a spa.
    A children club and a teenager’s club with supervised sports and game activities.
    A restaurant and a shop.

    For self catering: Several options – Liausson
    There are at least 5 villas set as holiday rentals in Liausson.
    They vary in size and prices. But usually require a week minimum stay.


    For a hotel stay: Hôtel Les Hauts de Mourèze – Moureze
    There are no hotels near the start point of this hike but a couple of places in Moureze.
    The hotel les hauts de Moureze is a traditional and family run small French hotel.
    It has 14 bedrooms and an outdoors swimming pool.
    Prices are reasonable, each room has different levels of comfort and prices. Ranging from single to quad room.
    Expect similar prices and comfort you would find in a good country inn in Britain

  • A French mooch in the Vosges – from Moosch to Auberge Gsang 11 miles

    The Vosges Mountains are one of France’s most underrated hiking destinations, often overshadowed by the Alps or the Pyrenees. But that’s exactly what makes them special!
    The area offers stunning landscapes; very well maintained paths and more importantly it is a foodie paradise.
    Most of it, like the Black Forest in Germany is covered by working forests and what they lack in height compared to their Alpine cousins; they make up for the maintenance of the paths. Making hiking suited to both beginners and more experienced hikers.
    Everyone talks about Savoyard cheese in the Alps, but the Vosges have Munster cheese, tarte flambée, blueberry tart, and hearty mountain meals—all served in cozy, rustic inns along the trails, some at high altitude. Most Auberges are family run businesses. On this hike, we stopped at the Auberge Gsang and enjoyed soup, a delicious beef stew, local cheese selection and a dessert all home-made by the couple who run the auberge.

    An 11 miles scenic route in the Vosges Mountains in France. With a hot meal at an Auberge half way through the hike (and at 1,000 m of elevation!) - This image will take you to the video of the route and all pictures from the hike
    Click on this image to watch the video
    An 11 miles scenic route in the Vosges Mountains in France. With a hot meal at an Auberge half way through the hike (and at 1,000 m of elevation!) - This image will take you to the the link on Komoot
    Click on this image for the route on Komoot. If you are using other apps, contact me for the gpx file or link on your favourite app

    Stats
    DifficultyStrenuous
    Length11.1 mi – 17.8 km
    Total elevation2,579 ft – 786m
    Highest point3,501 ft – 1,067m
    Walking time4h50
    Terrainmostly Mountain paths, hiking paths and footpaths
    EquipmentCheck the mountain forecast Prior to setting off; between November and End of April, you are likely to need microspikes and / or snowshoes to tackle the snow . Enough water and snacks to last you for 5 hours, in case the auberge is closed. a good map or gPS, in particular as the snow on top will hide the paths.
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or other apps.
    Click here for Komoot Link

    Getting there
    • Driving: Car parking in Moosch on Place du Colonel Arnaud Beltrame
    • Public transport: Moosch TER train station

    Watering Holes
    • Auberge Gsang – Mid-way through the walk (at c. 5.5 miles and elevation of 3,365ft / 1,026m !)
      The auberge is a wonderful family-run place by a couple.
      Expect dishes of the day such as soup, beef stew and local cheeses. Everything is home-made and delicious.
      It is very cosy with a fireplace in winter. And a terrace with a view for the sunnier days.
      It is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays and open from 11:00 am but do call ahead to ensure it is open on the day of your hike.
    • Ferme Auberge du Thanner Hubel – A small detour from the hike (will add a mile in total to your hike and at 3,344ft / 1,025 of altitude !)
      If the Auberge Gsang is closed; this one is only closed on Mondays but do check by phone ahead of setting off!
      Another family run establishment with home-cooked food at altitude.
      I have not visited it and therefore cannot give personal comment.
    • Pâtisserie-Chocolaterie-Boulangerie Dietschin Fellering / Moosch – At the start / end of the walk
      This is perfect to grab breakfast or a coffee before the hike – buy your (back-up) lunch or enjoy a cake an coffee ater the hike.
      It is an artisan baker and the quality was excellent

    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat


    For sleeping at altitude: Ferme Auberge Gsang.
    Not only the food is delicious but there are beds you can rent upstairs.
    Please note that the farm is only accessible by foot.
    And whilst I greatly enjoyed our 3 course lunch there, I have not tried to book a bed.
    Information is limited, so you would have to call (in French) to discuss prices and availability

    Alternatively, for another bed with altitude, the two ski clubs (Refuge Rossberg from SRC Thann and refuge club Vosges du Thanner Hubel) have refuges with kitchens, shared bathrooms with hot showers and dorm rooms.
    You would need to call ahead of time to arrange your stay, and again; speaking French or German is probably a pre-requisite to book.
    The two ski clubs charge between 10-15 Euro p.p. per night.
    They are not directly on the trails but it will only add an extra mile to your hike to reach them.
    Again, no access by car, so think about this when you pack your luggage. And you will need to bring your own food.
    The last thing to note is that French Refuge often have the shared beds side by side; it may feel like sharing a large bed with 6 to 8 strangers rather the separate bunk beds we are used to seeing in Youth Hostel.

    To suit all tastes and budgets:
    On this trip, we were visiting friends in Mulhouse and completed this hike as a day trip.
    There are very few accommodation options around Moosch but getting there by train from Mulhouse is very easy.
    There are trains every hours and it takes less than an hour. (Every other hour on Sundays)
    The staff at the train station in Mulhouse speak German and will be able to help you on timetables and costs.
    Mulhouse is vibrant student city and accommodation options are endless as well as reasonably priced.