Tag: North West England Hiking

Forest of Bowland: 10 miles from Dunsop Bridge with a cafe and my favourite Inn in the area

Close to both the Yorkshire Dales and the Lake District; the Forest of Bowland is often forgotten and underrated. But it is a very stunning area (AONB status), and you will often have the walk for yourself !
And for the fans of architectures, the area has 500 listed buildings and 18 scheduled monuments. When I first moved to the area, I did not understand why it was called a forest and yet I could see so few trees. This comes from the traditional term used to described a royal hunting ground. You will mostly found heather moorlands and blanket bogs.

Stats

Difficulty	Moderate to strenuous. No great ups and downs but over 10 miles
Length	10.2 mi – 16.4 km
Total elevation	1,627 ft – 496m
Highest point	956ft – 292m
Walking time	4h20
Terrain	paths, footpaths and road
Equipment	Waterproof shoes as you will be crossing some stepping stone and some parts of the walk could get boggy

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Hike of c. 10 miles and 1,500 ft of elevation in the stunning Forest of Bowland. Take good waterproof shoes as some paths can be muddy. However, Bowland is very underrated as a beautiful area to walk in, away from the crowds of the Lake Districts and Yorkshire Dales — Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

Getting there

Driving: Some free parking on Trough Road, and paid car-park in Dunsop Bridge. Alternatively, if you prefer starting and finishing at the Inn in Whitewell; some parking at the corner of Little Bowland Road and River Hodder
Public transport: Bus 11 from Clitheroe (C. 45 mins)
From Preston: Train to Blackburn then train to Clitheroe then bus 11 to War Memorial (c. 2h)

Watering Holes

The Inn at Whitewell – Whitewell – 5.5 miles into the walk
My favourite in the area. This is a 16th Century former coaching Inn.
Check before you go as this is a popular wedding venue.
Fab local ales as well as home-cooked gastro food using local ingredients.
Pub classics for lunch and gastro-pub dishes for supper. This is also a place to eat local Game when in season. The kitchen is open every day from 12:00-14:00 and Mon-Thu 19:00-21:00 as well as Fri-Sun 18:30-21:00.
There are several rooms for food and drinks. All with peat-fires burning.
Even though the Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip had the queen’s celebratory 80th birthday lunch at the Inn; the Inn has won an array of awards; the service is very professional and friendly.

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

The forest of Bowland is a very enchanting place to spend the week-end. With several picturesque villages, an array of stunning walks and so many good places to eat, drink and relax

For a luxury and romantic week-end: The Inn at Whitewell
24 bedrooms, all individually decorated with antique furnitures and luxurious soft furnishing.
Rooms price start just under £200 on B&B basis

For Glamping (and seeing the meerkats): Bowland Escapes
Offers lodges for families and groups up to 6, camping pods, safari tents, an Iron Age storehouse and one cosy and romantic shepherd’s hut. It also has 5 soft grass pitch for tents.
All accomodations offer free entry to the wild boar park. Which hosts other animals such as alpacas and some meerkats !

For groups on budgets: YHA Slaidburn – Slaidburn
The hostel will accommodate up to 30 people ! But can only be booked as a whole venue on a self-catering basis
Minimum stay of 2 nights. However, week-nights are prices at £200 per night and the price doubles for week-end night
Open wood-fire in the common rooms. And drying room for your walking gear.
If you do not fancy staying in for meals and drinks; there is a great pub across the road. And the village has a shop if you have forgotten any supplies.
However, note there is no phone signal or wifi.

September 8, 2024

The Langdale Pikes – 7 Wainwrights in 7 miles

The Langdale Pikes, is an iconic walk in the Central Lake District.
And for those bagging Wainwrights, this hike takes in: Loft Crag, Pike of Stickle, Harrison Stickle, Pavey Ark, Thunacar Knott, High Raise, Sergeant Man, Stickle Tarn

Stats

Difficulty	Moderate + to strenuous
Length	7 mi – 11.3 km
Total elevation	2,960 ft – 620m
Highest point	2,500 ft – 762m
Walking time	c. 5h00
Terrain	Hiking paths, footpaths and some light scrambling
Equipment	Layers, layers, layers ! The top can get exposed to wind-chill and plenty of water (Although You will cross some ghyll / stream after c. 2 miles, 4.5 miles, 5 miles, 5.5 miles, and will be following the ghyll again from the 6th mile onward) – Good sturdy shoes as some parts are bit scrambly (no technical skills required) and some parts can be muddy.

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Getting there

Driving: The National Trust car park at the Langdales is free to members but expensive otherwise. The New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel has a spill over in its adjacent field that is the cheaper than the NT car-park and open to anyone (you don’t have to be a guest)
Public transport: Sadly, the walk is not easily accessible by public transport.
It takes about an hour and 2 busses from Windermere

Watering Holes

The New Dungeon Ghyll – Langdale – at the beginning or end of the walk.
Owned by the Red Cat Pub Company
For sunny days; there are some seating in front of the hotel and further seating in the 6 acres garden with some deck chairs and stunning views of Crinkle Crags. For the cooler day; the Walker’s bar is open to non-residents and has a wood-burning fire.
It serves its own branded ales as well as other locally brewed ales. And the food is locally sourced.
Expect pub classics as well as gastro-pub type dishes served from 12:00 daily
You can also grab breakfast or a cup of coffee before setting off as Stickle Barn does not open before 10 am.
Stickle Barn – Langdale – at the beginning or end of the walk.
Taken over from the National Trust by Lanty Slee in May 2024; the company has spent renovating the property.
They have a free tuk-tuk service from 16:00-21:00 to the NT campsite. And live music on some nights.
Some local ales served in the bar, the beer-garden or the cute and shaded family friendly outdoors area.
Delicious cakes throughout the day and American type menu.

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

The Langdales is walker’s paradise for a week-end. You could enjoy this particular hike on one day, and take it easy the next day with my low-level walk around the Langdales the next day: https://peregrinatenw.co.uk/2024/08/13/great-and-little-langdale-a-low-level-lake-district-walk-with-4-pubs-1-swim-and-a-cathedral/
But you will find countless other options if you fancy something easier / shorter or more technical (like Jack’s Rake or rock-climbing).
Unlike Ambleside or Keswick; this would be an outdoor pursuit only week-end. There are a few options nearby for food and drinks but no shopping there.

For a luxury stay: The New Dungeon Ghyll – Langdales
It offers comfortable rooms in a mix of double, twins and family rooms.

For groups: The Great Langdale Bunkhouse – behind the New Dungeon Ghyll
Sleeps 18 divided into 3 twin rooms and two rooms of 6 (all bunk beds).
Equipped with biomass central heating and hot water with powerful showers.
Separate male and female shows and toilet facilities.
There are no self-catering options but a tavern, the New Dungeon Ghyll and Stickle Barn on its doorstep.

For a cosy B&B or self-catering for up to 6 people: Millbeck Farm – Langdale
A beautiful 17th centrury farm-building. (Actually still a working farm!) And the owners breed Herdies.
Basic rooms with shared bathrooms at the B&B. With delicious and substantial breakfast.
They also rent 2 rustic cottages that can accommodate 6 in total (Double, twin and bunk room)

September 7, 2024

Another Place: a sunny coastal walk in Merseyside with Anthony Gormley’s statues

A fab walk whether you live in Liverpool or visiting from further away. It is accessible by public transport.
Mixing sandy beaches, enchanting woodlands and art just a stone-throw from Liverpool city centre.

A very sunny day walking from Formby to Crosby in Merseyside. A mix of sandy beaches and dunes, some woodland and the wonderful art of Anthony Gormley's 100 statues ! Nearly 12 miles but flat. Accessible by public transports. — Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

Stats

Difficulty	Moderate
Length	11.5 mi – 18.7 km
Total elevation	673 ft – 205m
Highest point	44ft – 13m
Walking time	4h20
Terrain	Sand, paths and Streets
Equipment	Water-shoes if you fancy walking in the water. Beware it some places are more mud than sands. Enough water to last you 11 miles or 5 hours. There may be an ice-cream van half way but it is not a guarantee.

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Getting there

Driving: Park at Formby Merseyrail station (free for rail users; and you will be getting the Merseyrail back)
Public transport: Formby Merseyrail station
From Preston: X2 bus to Southport then merseyrail to Formby (c. 1h45)
From Manchester: Train from Piccadilly to Lime Street, then Merseyrail from Central to Formby (c.1h40) or Train from Victoria to Southport then Merseyrail to Formby
From Chester: Merseyrail to Moorfields then to Formby

Watering Holes

Unfortunately, there are no pubs en route of this walk. You may find an ice-cream van about half way through.
However, make a long day or week-end of it and get into Liverpool. The world becomes your oyster !

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

Liverpool is an amazing city with everything you could wish for: beaches (along this walk), vibrant culture and history, plenty of options to wine and dine. And most important of all: it’s people ! I have worked in Liverpool and always loved the Scouse mentality. Very down to earth, welcoming and friendly.

For the small budgets: YHA Albert Dock
I am often reluctant to stay in YHAs in city-centre. But this particular one is fab. It offers dorm rooms as well as comfortable doubles. The kitchen is usually very clean, the staff incredibly welcoming and it is located in a fab part of the centre. There is a comfy TV room if you are exhausted at the end of the day and the bar is usually quiet.
The reason I usually avoid city-centre hostels are party-groups. I know this one can get a bit more rowdy at week-ends but is a haven of peace during the week. You will mostly find school-groups and families staying there.

To combine with a night out at the Rope Walk: The Resident Liverpool
At the heart of the trendy Rope Walk the place remains a heaven of peace.
Excellent value and rooms have kitchenettes; allowing you to stock your packed lunches and cold drinks for the walk.

For some luxury: InnSide by Melia
Very central but away from the hustle and bustle. Perfect for a comfortable week-end of hiking combined with museums and sightseeing. Some rooms have views on the water and all rooms are very comfortable. Just one downside for me … Open-plan bathrooms still seem to be in trend but personally, this is a huge turn-off for me.

September 5, 2024

High Cup Nick – A Wainwright’s favourite in the North Pennines with a pub

High Cup nick is dramatic U-shaped valley or “nick” at the head of High Cup Gill in the North Pennines.
It was one of Alfred Wainwright’s favourite feature on the Pennine Way.
Start this walk from Dufton, walking up to the top and scramble down High Cup Gill. The views of the Eden Valley are as impressive from the top as they are from the valley.

Stats

Difficulty	Moderate with technical section (Scramble down)
Length	10.8 mi – 17.4 km
Total elevation	1,827 ft – 557m
Highest point	1,888ft – 575m
Walking time	4h20
Terrain	paths, roads, boulder field (scramble down)
Equipment	Enough water to walk 11 miles or 4h30. There is a pub at the Beginning and the end but nothing in between. Sturdy shoes or boots as you will be scrambling down a boulder field. Layers as it can get exposed and chilly on top

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Getting there

Driving: The car park in Dufton: honesty box for payment and toilets.
Public transport: Kendal Bus X6 to the Approach stop (C. 20 mins)
From Manchester: Train to Carnforth then bus 755 to the Approach stop (c. 2h05)
From Preston: Train to Arnside then bus 552 to the Approach Stop (c. 1h50)
From Lancaster: Bus 555 to Ashbank lane stop (c. 45mins)
From Carlisle: Train to Kendal then Bus 555 to Ashbank lane stop (c. 1h35)

Watering Holes

The Stag Inn – Dufton – At the start or end of the walk
A wonderful independent country pub where muddy boots and paws are welcome.
Home-cooked food and good ales. The kitchen is open Tue-Sat from 17:30-20:00 and Sun from 12:00-14:00 and 17:00-19:00. Expect pub classics including delicious pies as well as more gastro-type dishes such as confit duck-leg or teriyaki tuna steaks.
Beer garden with stunning views over the Pennines for the summer and roaring wood-fires to warm up in winter.

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

Dufton is a stop on the Pennine Way and offers a range of accommodation for those wishing to stay before or after the walk.
Ufortunately, the YHA has closed.

For camping and glamping: Dufton Caravan Park
Grass pitches for tents, hard-standing pitches for caravan and motor-homes and 3 hobbit huts for glampers.
Hot showers, drying room, and electric hookups.
The village’s cafe is 200 yards from the site and the pub only 300 yards.

For a romantic week-end Sunday: Dufton Barn Holidays Shepherd’s view is the luxurious option for couples with a super-king sized bed and jacuzzi bath (as well as a walk-in shower). Cozy log-burner and fab views over the Pennines.minimum booking policy.

For families and or 2 couples: Brow Farm – Dufton
Offers a traditional cottage with 2 double bedrooms. A 2 nights minimum booking may apply.

August 31, 2024

A Coledale horseshoe Escape. How to get out of it on wet and windy summer’s day.

We set-off to do the Coledale Horseshoe on Saturday in August. We started from Braithwaite towards Grisedale Pike. Unfortunately, the weather kept on getting worse and we had to abandon the rest of the horseshoe. Still ticked one Wainwright (Grisedale) and one Birkett (Kinn) … and not forgetting a (saving grace visit to the) pub !
Do not attempt this walk if your mountain experience is limited. We came off the side of Grisedale pike on the scree towards Hobcarton Gill. As far as descending on scree; I have seen worse but only OK to do if you have experienced this kind of terrain before or you are accompanied by seasoned mountaineers.

I had to abandon my first attempt to complete the Coledale horseshoe from Braithwaite as the weather was too wet and windy. I came off my first Wainwright summit (Grisedale Pike). Only attempt if you have experience on scree or are with experienced mountaineers. — Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

Stats

Difficulty	Technical – only attempt if you have experience on scree or accompanied by someone who does
Length	11.1 mi – 17.9 km
Total elevation	3,153 ft – 961m
Highest point	2,458 ft – 749m
Walking time	5h20
Terrain	Walking paths, Alpine paths and scree (Off-piste)
Equipment	Layers, layers, layers ! Even if it is a beautiful day in the valley, it can get chilly and exposed on top. Sufficient water for 6 hours / 11 miles, there are no pubs before the start / end. Good boots, you will be going down scree.

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Getting there

Driving: Whinlatter Pass car park is free but only has 12 spots. Alternatively, you can park at the primary school and put a donation in the box.
Public transport: The X5 runs once per hour from Keswick; unfortunately, public transport options from the North West are limited but not impossible. I personally took the train to Penrith and then two busses to Braithwaite.

Watering Holes

The Coledale Inn – Braithwaite – At the start or end of the walk
Built in the late 1800’s as a woolen mill and later converted as a country inn. Muddy boots and paws are more than welcomed.
Home-made food and good ales. The kitchen is open every day from 12:00-21:00. Expect pub classics including delicious pies.
Beer garden with stunning views of Skiddaw during the summer and roaring wood-fires to warm up in winter.

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

For a walking week-end, Braithwaite is definitely the place the stay. Endless possibilities on the door-step for both low and high level walks and of course, the Coledale horseshoe.
But if you are after a mix of walking, wining, dining and shopping; Keswick is only 2 miles down the road.

For camping and glamping: Braithwaite Village camping and caravanning site
Grass pitches for tents and camper vans with awning, hard-standing pitches for caravan and motor-homes.
Outstanding range of services: from dedicated accessible facilities, parents and baby room, and bike servicing area.
In terms of comfort it has everything, from shower blocks, flushing toilets, wi-fi in the club room, washing machine, dog-wash area.

For a cosy week-end: The Coledale Inn – Braithwaite
Definitely a Inn made for walkers. They have drying facilities.
Cosy rooms and they offer good deals for 2 nights mid-week DBB.
Family rooms availabl.

For groups or families: The Old Farmhouse – Braithwaite
A beautiful cottage dating 1656. It has 2 king rooms and 1 double.
For larger groups, rent out the cottage as well as the annex and you can sleep up to 12 people.

August 28, 2024