Tag: Travel

A French mooch in the Vosges – from Moosch to Auberge Gsang 11 miles

The Vosges Mountains are one of France’s most underrated hiking destinations, often overshadowed by the Alps or the Pyrenees. But that’s exactly what makes them special!
The area offers stunning landscapes; very well maintained paths and more importantly it is a foodie paradise.
Most of it, like the Black Forest in Germany is covered by working forests and what they lack in height compared to their Alpine cousins; they make up for the maintenance of the paths. Making hiking suited to both beginners and more experienced hikers.
Everyone talks about Savoyard cheese in the Alps, but the Vosges have Munster cheese, tarte flambée, blueberry tart, and hearty mountain meals—all served in cozy, rustic inns along the trails, some at high altitude. Most Auberges are family run businesses. On this hike, we stopped at the Auberge Gsang and enjoyed soup, a delicious beef stew, local cheese selection and a dessert all home-made by the couple who run the auberge.

An 11 miles scenic route in the Vosges Mountains in France. With a hot meal at an Auberge half way through the hike (and at 1,000 m of elevation!) - This image will take you to the video of the route and all pictures from the hike — Click on this image to watch the video

Stats

Difficulty	Strenuous
Length	11.1 mi – 17.8 km
Total elevation	2,579 ft – 786m
Highest point	3,501 ft – 1,067m
Walking time	4h50
Terrain	mostly Mountain paths, hiking paths and footpaths
Equipment	Check the mountain forecast Prior to setting off; between November and End of April, you are likely to need microspikes and / or snowshoes to tackle the snow . Enough water and snacks to last you for 5 hours, in case the auberge is closed. a good map or gPS, in particular as the snow on top will hide the paths.

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or other apps.
Click here for Komoot Link

Getting there

Driving: Car parking in Moosch on Place du Colonel Arnaud Beltrame
Public transport: Moosch TER train station

Watering Holes

Auberge Gsang – Mid-way through the walk (at c. 5.5 miles and elevation of 3,365ft / 1,026m !)
The auberge is a wonderful family-run place by a couple.
Expect dishes of the day such as soup, beef stew and local cheeses. Everything is home-made and delicious.
It is very cosy with a fireplace in winter. And a terrace with a view for the sunnier days.
It is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays and open from 11:00 am but do call ahead to ensure it is open on the day of your hike.
Ferme Auberge du Thanner Hubel – A small detour from the hike (will add a mile in total to your hike and at 3,344ft / 1,025 of altitude !)
If the Auberge Gsang is closed; this one is only closed on Mondays but do check by phone ahead of setting off!
Another family run establishment with home-cooked food at altitude.
I have not visited it and therefore cannot give personal comment.
Pâtisserie-Chocolaterie-Boulangerie Dietschin Fellering / Moosch – At the start / end of the walk
This is perfect to grab breakfast or a coffee before the hike – buy your (back-up) lunch or enjoy a cake an coffee ater the hike.
It is an artisan baker and the quality was excellent

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

For sleeping at altitude: Ferme Auberge Gsang.
Not only the food is delicious but there are beds you can rent upstairs.
Please note that the farm is only accessible by foot.
And whilst I greatly enjoyed our 3 course lunch there, I have not tried to book a bed.
Information is limited, so you would have to call (in French) to discuss prices and availability

Alternatively, for another bed with altitude, the two ski clubs (Refuge Rossberg from SRC Thann and refuge club Vosges du Thanner Hubel) have refuges with kitchens, shared bathrooms with hot showers and dorm rooms.
You would need to call ahead of time to arrange your stay, and again; speaking French or German is probably a pre-requisite to book.
The two ski clubs charge between 10-15 Euro p.p. per night.
They are not directly on the trails but it will only add an extra mile to your hike to reach them.
Again, no access by car, so think about this when you pack your luggage. And you will need to bring your own food.
The last thing to note is that French Refuge often have the shared beds side by side; it may feel like sharing a large bed with 6 to 8 strangers rather the separate bunk beds we are used to seeing in Youth Hostel.

To suit all tastes and budgets:
On this trip, we were visiting friends in Mulhouse and completed this hike as a day trip.
There are very few accommodation options around Moosch but getting there by train from Mulhouse is very easy.
There are trains every hours and it takes less than an hour. (Every other hour on Sundays)
The staff at the train station in Mulhouse speak German and will be able to help you on timetables and costs.
Mulhouse is vibrant student city and accommodation options are endless as well as reasonably priced.

March 2, 2025

Trollers Gill and Grimwith Reservoir – A beginner’s gill scramble in the Yorkshire Dales

Trollers Ghyll (or Trollers Gill) is a narrow limestone gorge in the Yorkshire Dales, England, near the village of Appletreewick. The ghyll (a Northern English term for a steep valley or ravine) has a mysterious reputation tied to local folk
The gorge is said to be haunted by trolls, hence its name. According to legend, it is home to a fearsome barghest—a supernatural black dog with glowing red eyes, often associated with death and misfortune. Some stories also link the ghyll to mythical goblins and other eerie creatures, adding to its reputation as a place of mystery.
This walk will take you on a 10.5 miles hike from Grimwith Reservoir with some scrambling in the Ghyll. It is ideal for those who are learning to find their feet on rocky and uneven terrain as well as the most seasoned hikers as the views are maginificient.

Stats

Difficulty	Moderate+
Length	10.7 mi – 17.2 km
Total elevation	1,394 ft – 425m
Highest point	1,211 ft – 369m
Walking time	4h10
Terrain	mostly hiking paths, river, and Footpath
Equipment	Good boots, it can get muddy in Places and you will also be walking on the river’s bed-rock The water may be high in places. Enough water to last you for 4 hours. Plenty of snacks as there are no facilities en route. a good map or gPS

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Getting there

Driving: Free car-parking at Grimwith Reservoir – You could also start the walk at Stump Cross Caverns to start and/or finish with their cafes
Public transport:
Unfortunately, this walk is not accessible by public transport

Watering Holes

Cafe at Stumpcross Cavern – c. Mid-way if starting at Grimwith or at start / finish if you opt to start from there
A very cosy licensed cafe with a view .
It produces its own ale and bitter. Also a great place to stop for cake, sandwiches, soup or coffee.
Beer garden for the summer and cosy fireplace in winter.
Open Wed-Sun from 10:00-17:00 (18:00 on Sat & Sun)

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

This walk is ideally placed in a beautiful part of the Yorkshire Dales where you will find plenty of other walking routes.
And close to some of the prettiest villages in the Yorkshire Dales: Grassington, Burnsall, Appletreewick etc.

For camping and glamping: Howgill Lodge
It offers 4 luxurious and romantic log-cabins with wood-fired private hot-tubs and magnificent views from their private patio area.
Of course all lodges comes with full ensuite bathroom and kitchen.
47 Grass tent pitches with or without electric hookups.
And 19 gravel pitches for motorhomes and caravans with electric hookup.
An award winning campsite. With outstanding shower facilities,
The farm is also home some alpacas. And close to two excellent pubs

For a romantic experience: Howgill Lodge wood cabins

For self-catering options: 4 Skyreholme Mill Cottage
It accommodates 6 in 3 bedrooms (King, double and twin)
2 nights minimum booking

For a cosy stay: Orchard House B&B – Hebden
A small B&B in the village of Hebden. They have a double with private bathroom and an ensuite twin room.
Reasonably priced for the area. It is a peaceful place where you can escape everyone and everything.
And Hebden has a cracking village pub.

For a luxurious experience: The Devonshire Fell Hotel – Burnsall
A 4 star luxury hotel in the beautiful village of Burnsall.
The restaurant serves exceptional food.

February 1, 2025

Lingmoor Fell – An easy Wainwright with a pint and phenomenal views – Cumbria

Lingmoor Fell, although quite low offers some of the best views in the Lake District. It includes the Coniston range with the distinctive Wetherlam and the iconic Langdale Pikes.
It is an isolated fell, and as we were in Elterwater, we did it as a quick up and down.
But you could use another route to include fat-man squeeze and/or Blea Tarn.
It doesn’t require any technical skills but as there are an array of paths at the start, do not forget your map or GPS. The actual summit is also known as Brown Howe.
The Langdales are at the heart of Lake District and simply paradise for walking, hiking, cycling or climbing. You can easily make a week-end of it. But don’t expect the facilities of Ambleside or Keswick.

Stats

Difficulty	Moderate
Length	5.5 mi – 8.8 km
Total elevation	1,460 ft – 445m
Highest point	1,538 ft – 469m
Walking time	3h00
Terrain	mostly hiking paths, footpath and road
Equipment	Good shoes, it can get muddy in places. Enough water to last you for 3 hours. Plenty of snacks as there are no facilities en route. a good map or gPS

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Lingmoor Fell is an isolated fell, and as we were in Elterwater, we did it as a quick up and down.
But you could use another route to include fat-man squeeze and/or Blea Tarn.
It doesn't require any technical skills but as there are an array of paths at the start, do not forget your map or GPS. The actual summit is also known as Brown Howe. — Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

Getting there

Driving: There are a few laybys (Free) outside Elterwater but do get there early
Public transport:
From Preston: Train to Oxenholme then train to Windermere then bus to the Britannia Inn (c. 1h50)
From Lancaster: Train to Oxenholme then train to Windermere then bus to the Britannia Inn (c. 1h40)
From Carlisle: Train to Oxenholme then train to Windermere then bus to the Britannia Inn (c. 2hrs)

Watering Holes

The Britannia Inn – Elterwater – at the end of the walk.
A cosy and traditional Cumbrian pub and Inn. Muddy boots and paws are welcome and there.
Outdoor seating in the summer and roaring fireplace in the winter
The food is rustic and uses fresh local produce, I particularly like the minted South Lakes lamb Henry. They offer no less than 6 kinds of Cumbrian ales.
The kitchen is open from 12:00 to 14:00 for lunch, 14:00-16:00 for soups and sandwiches and 17:30-20:30 for supper every-day.
Lanty Slee – Elterwater
Not technically on the route but a few steps outside the village.
Fuel up with a full English breakfast before the walk (Opens at 10 am).
Or if pub grub and ale are not your thing; you will find a selection of fine wines and spirits as well as a tapas menu as well as American fayre (12:00-21:00)
The Eltermere Inn – Elterwater
For a traditional finer dining experience or a delicious Sunday roast. It also offers some pub classics and everything is made from fresh, local ingredients/
It remains a traditional Cumbrian Inn and welcomes muddy boots and paws.
With outdoor seating in the summer and roaring wood-fire in the winter.

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

Elterwater is a great base to visit the Langdale Valley. Wether you are into walking, hiking, cycling or climbing you won’t be short of activities to do in the area.
The village has a pub and a cocktail bar as well as a range of accommodation to suit all tastes and budgets.
But do not expect facilities you would find in Ambleside or Keswick. This is the perfect destination for outdoor pursuits; not for shopping or pub crawling.

For self-catering options: There is a range of cottages in Elterwater and Chapel Stile to accommodate various budgets, styles and size. I am happy to make recommendations by email.

For the budget conscious: The YHA has sold its property but the new owners kept it as a hostel.
With private and shared room for 2 to 6 people, it has 38 beds in total.
A self-catering kitchen, cosy lounge, drying room, lockable cycle storage, electric bike charging and bike washing facilities.
You don’t have to self-cater as the hostel also offers: full English breakfast, packed lunches and home-made suppers using fresh and locally sourced ingredients.
The hostel can also be booked as a venue for full use; starting with 10 people in winter.

For a cosy stay: The Britannia Inn – Elterwater
The Inn has ensuite double and twin rooms and rooms with external bathrooms.
Part of the family run pub, this would make a lovely cosy stay in the heart of the Langdales.

For a romantic experience: The Eltermere Inn – Elterwater
Offers a dozen bedrooms all individually furnished and ranging from Super Luxury to cosy rooms.
Starting at just over £150 per double room on a B&B basis, this is not bad value for the area.
But week-end stays are 2 nights minimum.
With a bar and on-site dining room, the menu is a mix of pub-classics and finer dining. All prepared with fresh and local ingredients.

For a luxurious and spa experience:
Elterwater has two 4 star spa hotels.
I have not visited them and will let you do your own research.

For large group and charities: Weirside
This is a large self-catering and self-cleaning cottage.
Accommodates 20 people in 2 dorms.
And works out at £10 to £15 per person per night.
Its goal is to provides a place to focus on personal and social growth, whether as a retreat, working with young people on leadership or team building, or as a place to reflect on our own ability to influence the common good in the communities from which we come.

January 18, 2025

Studley Royal: a 9 mile walk in North Yorkshire (Nidderdale AONB) with several historical buildings

Studley Royal is a 800 acres Park, that includes an 18th Century landscaped garden, the ruins of Fountains Abbey, Fountains Hall Jacobean mansion and St Mary’s Church.
Fountains Abbey is the best preserved ruined Cistercian monastery in England. Now in UNESCO’s world heritage site list and managed by National Trust. For the fans of more modern history, the location was used in OMD’s Maid of Orlean’s music clip. And Fountains Hall was built between 1598 and 1611.
St Mary’s Church – a stunning Victorian Gothic Revival Church designed by William Burges. The inside is particularly impressive.
This walk also takes us to Markenfield Hall a beautiful moated manor house which is still inhabited by the family and can open to the public for 32 days each year
As we did this walk in the winter, we did not have time to visit all those fascinating places; but hoping to go back in Summer and combine the walk with a full tour.

The walks takes you on a 9 mile in Nidderdale AONB, in North Yorkshire. Starting at Studley Royal Park, near RIppon and Harrogate. It includes several historical buildings. This includes Fountains Abbey, St Mary's Church and Fountains Hall. — Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

Click on the image above to be take to the route on Komoot – Feel free to ask me for links on other walking apps

Stats

Difficulty	Moderate
Length	9.5 mi – 15.3 km
Total elevation	1,529 ft – 476m
Highest point	560 ft – 171m
Walking time	4h15
Terrain	mostly footpaths, hiking paths, and some road
Equipment	Good boots, it can get muddy in Places. Enough water to last you for 4 hours. Plenty of snacks as there are no cafe facilities en route (except start and end point). a good map or gPS

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Getting there

Driving: National Trust car-park at the start point.
Public transport: Take the train to Harrogate then bus to Studley Royal

Watering Holes

Several options from National Trust – at start / finish
The Visitor Centre Restaurant: serves a range of seasonal food. If you’re not feeling peckish, you can simply enjoy a cup of tea, coffee or hot chocolate. Indoor and outdoor seating is available
Studley Tearoom: perfect if you’re looking for a light bite or a cup of tea before your walk. Grab a quick lunch or snack to enjoy inside the tea-room or on the outdoor tables overlooking the lake.
The Mill Cafe: the place to go for a light bite to eat, sweet treat and a drink if you’re exploring the area by the abbey. With seating inside and benches outside, it’s the perfect spot for enjoying the lovely view across the green.
The Water Rat – Rippon – 2.5 miles from the start
A fab pub only a short drive away(9 mins) from the end of the walk.
For the long distance walkers, it would add 5 miles there and back or about 1 hr.

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

Make a weekend of it.

Nidderdale is classed as an Area of Outstanding Beauty and there are many walks there.
Alternatively, Harrogate is a wonderful place to spend the week-end. It has a wide range of place to eat and drink. Independent shops and for more cultural activities you can visit the Turkish Bath.

For luxury glamping: Yurtshire Glamping
They have 2 different locations which are only 2 miles apart in the area.
Each yurts have en-suite bathrooms with hot-showers. And private hot-tubs outside.
They all come with kitchenette and fire-pits / barbecues.
Each yurts sleep up to 4 people.
Requires a 2 nights minimum stay at week-end but can be booked for single nights from Sun-Thur.

For self-catering options: Several cottages and appartement options – Ripon
Booking.com offers an array of options

For a cosy stay: The Royal Oak – Ripon
A gastro-pub with reasonably priced room for the area.
They have 3 rooms (double or king) and DBB options available.

For larger groups: Chorister House
A 5 bedroom luxury property belonging to the National Trust.
It needs a 3 nights booking minimum but would work out at c. £50-70 / night / pp

January 15, 2025

Great Asby Scar, Rutter Force and Appleby – 11 miles with a mill and a pint – Cumbria

This is a fairly flat walk with no hills to climb or dramatic ups and downs but still takes 1,600 ft of total elevation. Starting at Orton Scar and ending in Appleby; it takes in part of the Dales Way.
A little more than half way through; you will find Rutter Force – this is an ideal spot to stop for your packed lunch or a break.
Rutter Force is a man-made waterfall that feeds a water wheel.
It dates back from 1579! The original wheel has been replaced since then; and the mill has been converted to an AirBnB.
But it was initially set-up as a corn mill and later converted to a bobbin mill in 1832.
Eventually turned into a saw mill and later used to power the local church and residents with electricity. The National Grid did reach the area in 1952 and the wheel has been used a decorative feature ever since.
There are no technical skills required for this route and it can be completed year-round. But make sure you have good boots or shoes as it can get muddy in places. And ensure you take enough water and snacks to sustain you for the 11 miles as there are no facilities en-route.

Westmorland. Fairly flat, yet undulating, it takes in Rutter Force waterfall and more of the beauty of the Eden Valley. Mostly footpath and bridleways; this is ideal as a winter-walk. Note that as a linear; you will need a two cars. — Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

Stats

Difficulty	Moderate
Length	11 mi – 17.6 km
Total elevation	1,165 ft – 355m
Highest point	1,246 ft – 380m
Walking time	4h00
Terrain	mostly footpath and bridleways
Equipment	Good shoes, it can get muddy in places. Enough water to last you for 4 hours. Plenty of snacks as there are no facilities en route

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

Getting there

Driving: This is a linear walk – you will need to cars. One at the start point and the other in Appleby in Westmorland.
The start car-park is after the village of Orton and Orton Quarry (if coming from the south / west) on the B6260
Public transport: Unfortunately, this is not an easy to walk to access by public transport.

Watering Holes

The Crown and Cushion Inn – Appleby in Westmorland – at the end of the walk.
A cosy and traditional Cumbrian pub with rooms.
Muddy boots and paws are welcome and there is a beer garden for the Summer.
The food is home-cooked. Expect traditional pub fayre and it is open from breakfast.
I really enjoyed my traditional minted lamb hot-pot.
The kitchen is open from 08:00 to 20:30 every-day.

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

Appleby in Westmorland is a very nice town to spend the week-end. But avoid during the Appleby Fair, usually on the first week of June .
There are plenty of walking and cycling routes around in the superb Eden Valley.
And is a good spot for foodies. Appleby Creamery makes Appleby brie cheese. And if the weather is too bad to walk; the castle has an interesting centre of Norman History
There are several pubs, cafes and restaurants as the main economy in town remains the tourism industry.

For a cosy stay that doesn’t break the bank: The Crown and Cushion – Appleby in Westmorland
This Robinson Brewery owned inn offers 5 comfortable rooms, including a one bedroom self-contained cottage.

For a unique and romantic experience: Appleby Castle – Appleby in Westmorland
The Castle offers a dozen bedrooms and self-contained cottages.
All decorated in individual and traditional style, many of the bedrooms in the castle have 4 poster beds.
Those most striking rooms do not come cheap but are perfect for a week-end celebrating special occasions.
For the more budget conscious, there are more affordable rooms in the old servant’s quarter.
Dinner is served in the 15th Century dining room. And offers both tasting menu and a la carte.

For a unique family experience: The cottage at Rutter Force – Great Asby
With a balcony over-looking the force and just above the water wheel; this is a unique place.
And a chance to spot red squirrels during your morning coffee.
The cosy cottage can be rented via AirBnB and has 2 bedrooms.
But you can only check-in on Mondays and Fridays.
As the place is quite quirky the owner does not accept children under 12 years old. This is purely for safety reasons.
Both rooms have double beds (no twins) and one of the bedroom is behind a curtain on the mezzanine.
As any quirky places; love it or hate it. But for wild-life lovers or any one seeking a different experience, this is an ideal place to spend a couple of nights.

November 14, 2024