Peregrinating the North West and Beyond

Tag: Travel

  • Heather covered hills and a pint around Penmaenmawr, North Wales

    This walk starts at the signpost of the Jubilee Trail above Penmaenmawr and includes a stops at the Fairy Glenn Inn around mid-way.
    Particularly beautiful in August when the purple heather is in full bloom.
    It gives you an overview of the sea, coastline, and hills of the area, including panoramic views of Penmaenmawr, Anglesey and the Great Orme.
    Starting on a path girdling the hill, you will then descend onto atmospheric woodland, waterfalls, river gorges before a sharp up to the Inn. On the way back to the start point, you may find the druid’s stone circle.

    Stunning heather covered hills on the Conwy range near Penmaenmawr in North Wales. An easy walk under 5 miles but with one very sharp pull up. Over 1,000ft of total elevation. Beautiful sea and mountain views.
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

    Stats
    DifficultyEasy
    Length5 mi – 8 km
    Total elevation1,184 ft – 361m
    Highest point1,109 ft – 338m
    Walking time2h40
    TerrainPaths and footpaths
    EquipmentLong trousers as the path can be difficult to find
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    Stunning heather covered hills on the Conwy range near Penmaenmawr in North Wales. An easy walk under 5 miles but with one very sharp pull up. Over 1,000ft of total elevation. Beautiful sea and mountain views.
    Send me a message by email or on Instagram to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link all files can be customized with your chosen departure points and/or to include sights along the trail.

    Getting there
    • Driving: There is a free car-park on top of Mountain Lane by the two towers
    • Public transport:
    • From Chester: Train to Conwy and bus 75 to Post Office (c. 1h50) but starts from the pub.
    • Contact me for other routes

    Watering Holes
    • The Fairy Glen Hotel – Dwygyfylchi – 1.85 mi into the walk (c. 55 mins)
      A wonderful independent pub with real ale and home-cooked food.
      There is some outdoors seating in the summer.
      Food is served from 12:00:20:30 on Mon-Fri and 12:00-20:15 at weekends. (Summer time schedule). The pies are absolutely delicious.

    Make a week-end of it

    There are many beautiful walks around Penmaenmawr. Both coastal walks and mountain walks.
    Great bus connections from Penmaenmawr to Conwy, Caernarfon and Llandudno.
    Enough cafe, pubs and restaurant to keep you fed and watered.
    A museum and a beach if you do not feel like walking.

    For the budget conscious: YHA in Conwy has shared dorms, private rooms and Bell Tents.
    It offers both breakfast and evening meals as well as a self-catering kitchen.

    For comfort: Penmaenmawr Bed & Breakfast only has 3 rooms (including one single).
    It is very cosy, dog friendly and the breakfast is delicious.

    For Camping: Trwyn Yr Wylfa offers grass pitches for tents and camper vans with awning and hard pitches for caravans.
    Excellent facilities and plenty of space between pitches. Still within walking distance of shops, cafe, village pub, restaurants and the beach.

  • Marsden, Black Hill and Black Moss – 14 miles in the South Pennines, West Yorkshire

    A 14 miles hike from the very pretty village of Marsden in the South Pennines in West Yorkshire (Edge of the Peak Districts). Take in the picturesque Butterly Reservoir, Black Hill, moorlands extending as far as you could see and Back Moss.
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

    Stats
    DifficultyStrenuous (From the distance)
    Length14.2 mi – 23 km
    Total elevation2,733 ft – 833m
    Highest point1, 897 ft – 578m
    Walking time5h20
    TerrainPaths, footpaths and moors
    EquipmentSufficient water for 14 miles (no pubs or shops en-route on this one) ; good waterproof shoes as the moors are boggy
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    A 14 miles hike from the very pretty village of Marsden in the South Pennines in West Yorkshire (Edge of the Peak Districts). Take in the picturesque Butterly Reservoir, Black Hill, moorlands extending as far as you could see and Back Moss.
    Send me a message by email or on Instagram to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link all files can be customized with your chosen departure points and/or to include sights along the trail.

    Getting there
    • Driving: There is a free car-park on Station Road and one on Argyle street
    • Public transport:
    • From Manchester: Direct train from Piccadilly (Takes less than half an hour!). Alternatively, take the train from Victoria and change at Huddersfield
    • From Preston: Train to Manchester Piccadilly and then train to Marsden (c. 1h40)
    • From Leeds: Train to Huddersfield and then train to Marsden (c. 55 mins)
    • From York: Direct trains to Marsden (c. 1h10)
    • From Sheffield: Train to Huddersfield and then train to Marsden (c. 1h30)
    • Contact me for other routes

    Watering Holes
    • The Riverhead Brewery tap – Marsden- after the hike.
      Part of the Ossett Brewery – The pub makes some of its own ale on site. And also stocks some local favorite such as Butterly and Redbrook. (Named after the local reservoirs)
      Probably my favorite for beer in Marsden. But beware this is a trendy micro-brewery rather than quaint village pub. It does serve food but trendy Asian fusion (i.e Bao Buns) rather than your traditional pub fare.
      There is outside seating if the sun is shining.
    • The New Inn – Marsden – after the hike of pubs and cafes in Haworth
      If you are after something more traditional and a great Sunday lunch; this is the place to go to in Marsden.
      A traditional Country pub with roaring fire in the winter and a beer garden in summer. Muddy boots and paws are always welcome.
      The food is traditional, uses local ingredients and home-cooked. Served Mon-Thu from 17:00 to 20:00, from 12:00 to 20:00 on Fri & Sat and 12:00-19:00 on Sundays.

    Make a week-end of it

    Marsden is a very pleasant village in the South Pennines.
    Being on the edge of the Peak Districts; there are plenty of walks that can be started from Marsden.
    And the village has enough coffee shops, pubs, bars and restaurant to keep you entertained for the week-end. Being minutes away from Leeds, and easily accessible by public transport; yet with beautiful country surrounding it will cater for a very wide crowd.
    Suprisingly, there isn’t a wide range of accommodation in Marsden.

    The New Inn does offer 6 cosy rooms above the pub. Check the Watering Holes section for more details.

    There are a few self-catering options for families and groups of friend. Check AirBnB and Booking for options.
    There are a couple in the centre of the village. But for a real county-side week-end; my favorite is about 35 mins walk from the centre.
    Hey Farm Barn: It sleeps 2 people in the bedroom and can accommodate a further two people or children on the sofa-bed. Plenty of walking and cycling from its door-step.

  • Lake District – Scout Scar: A castle, a cafe at the dairy parlor and a pub

    This low-level walk near Kendal is under 10miles but punches above its weight. It takes in a medieval castle owned by the National Trust, a cafe and farm-shop where you watch the cows being milked and a pub that serves delicious food.

    Scout Scar is a Wainwright Outlying Fell in the Lake District. This is a walk 10 miles walk starting from Sizergh, near Kendal (South Lakes). It also takes in a Medieval castle run by the National Trust, a farm-shop at a dairy parlor where you can watch the milking and the Strickland Arms pub
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

    Stats
    DifficultyModerate
    Length10 mi – 16.2 km
    Total elevation1,506 ft – 459m
    Highest point735ft – 224m
    Walking time4h15
    Terrainpaths, roads, walking paths, streets
    EquipmentEnough water to walk 8 miles or 3h30. There is a cafe at the Beginning and the end but nothing in between.
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    Scout Scar is a Wainwright Outlying Fell in the Lake District. This is a walk 10 miles walk starting from Sizergh, near Kendal (South Lakes). It also takes in a Medieval castle run by the National Trust, a farm-shop at a dairy parlor where you can watch the milking and the Strickland Arms pub
    Send me a message on Instagram or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

    Getting there
    • Driving: 6 free car-parks along the way: On Nannypie Lane before the Stricklands Arm / Near St John’s Church Helsington / Underbarrow Road before the paid Scout-scar car-park / Brigsteer Road / Scroggs Lane / Hawes Lane
    • Public transport: Kendal Bus X6 to the Approach stop (C. 20 mins)
    • From Manchester: Train to Carnforth then bus 755 to the Approach stop (c. 2h05)
    • From Preston: Train to Arnside then bus 552 to the Approach Stop (c. 1h50)
    • From Lancaster: Bus 555 to Ashbank lane stop (c. 45mins)
    • From Carlisle: Train to Kendal then Bus 555 to Ashbank lane stop (c. 1h35)

    Watering Holes
    • The cafe at Sizergh Castle – Sizergh – C. half a mile after the start (15 mins).
      National Trust Cafe
      This is handy if you have forgotten water, your lunch or want a perk me up coffee before starting the walk.
    • Wheatsheaf Inn – Brigsteer – Technically not on the original route, but worth the small detour. It would only be 2.29 miles in (c. 1h00) and would add an extra mile to your walk. Happy to customize the gpx, AllTrails or Komoot to include on the route.
      Owned by Robinsons breweries. This cosy tenanted pub offers good ales, pies, pub classics and sandwiches; a beer garden for the summer and a roaring log-fire in the winter. Food served from 12:00-15:00 and 17:00-20:00 Monday – Thursday and 12:00 to 20:00 on Friday to Sunday. The pub also has 6 rooms. (See below sections). Muddy paws and boots are always welcome.
    • Romneys – Helsington / Kendal – Again, not on the route but a detour worth making. This would be at the 6.5 miles (c. 3 hrs) and would add an extra mile to the walk.
      It is a traditional Cumbrian pub with rooms. The local ale and food with delicious pub classics, carvery on Sunday. Prices are very reasonable for the area and there are several options in the children’s menu.
      Beer garden with a children’s play area, log-fire for the winter and dogs are welcome. The pub also offers accommodation (see below section for details)
    • Low Sizergh Barn Cafe – Sizergh – C. 9.2 miles after the start (4h00).
      The best one if you are walking with the kids – A dairy parlor where you can watch the cows being milked at 15:30.
      Delicious ice-creams, farm-shop and the raw milk is on sale.
    • The Strickland Arms – Sizergh – At the end (or beginning) of the walk.
      The best for gourmets – it is listed in Michelin and Good Food guide. The food is home-made and cooked to order. The ale is just as good and the pub recommended by the good beer guide. A favorite with the locals and dog-owners. It is a very cosy pub with a large beer-garden, outside dining with a view and a roaring fire.

    Make a week-end of it – Why South Lakes and Kendal ?

    For those who have never visited the Lake Districts, Kendal is not a bad place to start from. The first largest town in the National Park, yet less crowded with tourists and more down to earth than Windermere. You will find the genuine cumbrian hospitality that made the region, a good selection of places to eat and drink; shops for the outdoors enthusiast offering better value than their counter-parts in Ambleside and further north. A farmer’s market and great brewery for the foodies. There is an array of scenic low-level walks in the area and good bus connections to the Lakes.

    For the seasoned mountaineers and fell-walkers a wet and cold day on the fells is not always a pleasant experience. Whether you have ticked all all your Wainwrights already you do not fancy a high-level walk with poor visibility on a day where the weather is unkind; the outlying fells are perfect to keep you ticking.

    For the culture enthusiasts there are multitude of place to visit around Kendal: Sizergh Castle, a medieval castle owned by the National Trust; the Levens Hall, an Elizabethan country manor with gardens and a deer park; Abbot Hall art gallery for fine art from the 18th-20th century and last but not least, the Kendal Museum with its collections of Natural History, Cumbrian history and World Wildlife gallery

    For the adventurers: Kendal has a climbing hall, Adventure Makers has a meeting point not far from the climbing centre and offers guides to take you Ghyll scrambling, Canyoning, and caving.

    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

    For walkers: The Weatsheaf Inn
    The Inn has 6 cosy rooms above its pub

    For a lazy Sunday: Romneys in Helsington offers 5 self-catering cottages and 5 snugs. Very close to both Kendal town centre and the walk route. Stay overnight and enjoy an amazing Sunday Lunch at the pub.

    For the campers and families: Sizergh Barn and Farm – tent and caravan pitches as well as a glamping pods that sleeps 4 and has a kitchenette.
    Enjoy the walk, a visit to Sizergh Castle with a unique stay on an Organic Dairy farm. It has an award winning farm shop and cafe. Sells raw milk and you can watch the cows being milked everyday at 15:30.

  • Whernside – One of the Yorkshire Three Peaks

    Whernside is the highest of the Yorkshire Three Peaks but the easiest to climb, if you want to enjoy a first fell hike or thinking about doing the 3 peaks but starting separately; Whernside is ideal. It is the closest to Ingleborough if you decided to summit each on separate days over the week-end.

    Whernside in the Yorkshire Dales is one of the Yorkshire Three Peaks. Although the highest of the three, I find it the easiest to climb. And a perfect introduction fell-walking. If you are not ready for the full challenge in one go, simply want a hike under 10 miles or make a week-end of it; Ingleborough is close to accomodations for Whernside. You could do one of each on separate days.
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

    Stats
    DifficultyModerate to Strenuous (from the elevation)
    Length9 mi – 14.5 km
    Total elevation1,969 ft – 600m
    Highest point2,415ft – 736m
    Walking time3h40
    TerrainWalking paths, paths, roads and boulders. You will need good knees for the descent
    EquipmentEnough water (no pubs until c. 3/4 of the way) – Layers (The Summit is above 2,000ft – it will always be colder and windier on top than in the valley)
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    Whernside in the Yorkshire Dales is one of the Yorkshire Three Peaks. Although the highest of the three, I find it the easiest to climb. And a perfect introduction fell-walking. If you are not ready for the full challenge in one go, simply want a hike under 10 miles or make a week-end of it; Ingleborough is close to accomodations for Whernside. You could do one of each on separate days.
    Send me a message on Instagram or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

    Getting there
    • Driving: Car Park next to Ribblehead train station or on Blea Moor Road (near the Station Inn Pub)
    • Public transport: Ribblehead train station
    • From Manchester: Direct trains from Victoria (c. 2h05)
    • From Leeds: Direct trains (c. 1h20)
    • From Preston: Train to Blackburn then to Ribblehead (c. 1h35)
    • From Lancaster: Train to Long Preston and then to Ribblehead (c. 1h20)
    • From Carlisle: Direct trains c. (c. 1h25)
    • From York: Train to Leeds than to Ribblehead (c. 1h50)

    Watering Holes
    • The Old Hill Inn – Chapel-le-Dale – C. 7.2 miles after the start (3h30).
      An amazing family run pub in a building dating 1615.
      Real ale with locally sourced and home cooked food do call the venue to check opening and serving hours as they do vary. An old-fashioned walker’s bar and inn; muddy boots and paws will alway receive a warm welcome. And a roaring wood-fire will help you warm up or dry off on colder days.
      It also offers camping and accommodation (see below section for details) .

    • The Station Inn – Ribblehead – At the end of the walk Independent pub with good ales, home-made food, a beer garden in the Summer and wood-fire in the winter.
      Food served from 12:00-21:00 every day. Expect traditional pub-food. The pies are made entirely from scratch, including the pastry ! As the pub is not tied to any brewery, you will find the owner’s own choice of locally brewed ales chosen for its quality. From time to time, you will find live music. The pub also offers camping and accommodation (see below sections for details)

    Make a week-end of it

    Being on the Yorkshire Three Peaks route, the area is geared up for outdoors enthusiast. If you are after heights, but do not feel ready for the full challenge; you could climb Whernside on a day and Ingleborough on the next. If you prefer a lower walk on one of the day; there are an abundance of options: the Dales Highway, the Pennine journey trail, the limestone walk, the Ribble way, etc. The area is also popular for caving with numerous caves nearby and cycling with green lanes.

    The Old Hill Inn is my favourite in the area and the best location to take in both Whenside and Ingleborough over the week-end.

    It offers two cosy bedrooms above the pub, some glamping pods, all with their own bathrooms and toilets and a few pitches for caravan and motorhomes. The glamping pods are perfect for a couple of friends sharing as they only have bunk beds though. The pitches are only suitable for fully equipped motorhomes and caravans as they offer water and electric hookups but not toilet facilities.

    The Station Inn is the better options if you travel by public transport as it is right next to the train station. Also the best location to include caving or cycling in your week-end. There are 6 bedrooms with views of the mountains. For group of friends or families; the pub also has 3 bunk-house but each must be rented by the same groups of 6 or 8. Each unit has en-suite facilities, sheets are provided but you need to bring your own sleeping bag. Finally, the pub has spaces for motorhomes. Free of charge as long as you use the pub for meals. You do not need to have a fully equipped camper as there are portaloos and sinks available for out of hours. But the pitches do not have electric hookups.

    The Old School bunkhouse, next to the Old Hill Inns is a great option for groups of friends or solo-travelers. But this is often booked out as a whole unit, in particular during school terms. Check in advance for smaller groups or individual bookings. It has 5 bunk rooms and 5 bathrooms. Will accommodate groups of up to 26 people.

  • Travel Spotlight – Visit To Haworth – Brontë Country, West Yorkshire

    Haworth was the home of the Brontë family.

    Today it is a bustling town with loads of independent shops, cafes and restaurants.

    Beautiful cobbled streets, the Brontë parsonage museum, a steam railway and the cutest ever Police Station makes it a very pleasant town to visit for a day or a week-end. Plenty to do for couples, friends and families.
    Open the menus below the pictures for details

    

    




    




    How to get there: 

    Regular bus services run to Haworth from Bradford Interchange, Keighley bus station and Hebden Bridge railway station. Nearest principal railway station is Leeds; nearest local railway station is Keighley. 
    




    The Keighley and Worth Valley Railway runs steam trains between Keighley railway station and Haworth railway station at weekends, bank holidays and daily in summer
    

    




    Watering Holes
    





      

    • Haworth Steam Brewery – A micro-brewery with delicious cask ales and home-cooked food. Expect giant filled Yorkshire puddings and other Yorkshire fayres. The brewery also produces small batch gins and its own all-natural tonics.
      .
      • 




    • The Fleece Inn – Timothy Taylor pub with CAMRA approved ales and home-made, locally sourced food. The service is really friendly and there is a log-fire in winter. Expect traditional pub-food served daily from 12:00-20:30 (19:30 on Sundays)                                                                                                                                             
      .
      • 




    • The King’s Arm – Near to the Parsonage museum – Has a beer-garden for a pint on sunny days. They do serve food but the latter divides opinions. I have never had the chance to try the food and cannot comment for myself.
      • 

    

    




    Things to do

    There are several walks in the area, including my Brontë Country walk. 
    But if you fancy some culture or indoors activity; the Brontë Parsonage museum is a must. It is the world’s largest collection of the world’s largest collection of Brontëana: letters, books and personal effects.You can also visit: Revd. Patrick Brontë’s study; the dining room where Charlotte, Emily and Anne did most of their writing; the kitchen; Revd. Arthur Bell Nicholls’s study; The Servant’s room; Charlotte’s room which includes one of her dress and full outfit; the Children’s study; Revd. Patrick Brontë’s bedroom and Branwell’s studio.The museum is open from May through September on Wed-Mon from 10:00-17:00From October to December Wednesday through Sunday from 10:00-17:00 and the same in April and March.The museum is closed during the whole month of January and February.
    




    

    




    Where to stay

    




      

    • For the budget conscious, Haworth has a YHA.                                                                                                             In a local mansion that was the home of a local mill-owner. It offers both bunk rooms and private rooms and can be rented as a whole venue. It has a self-catering kitchen, lounge area with pool table, a game room
      • 




    • For the history buffs – The Old Registry Guest House. Very central and has its own bar. Some rooms have four-poster beds. And all are very nicely decorated (only 8 rooms in total).
      • 




    • For the beer aficionados – The Fleece Inn – see above for details on the pub – it does have cosy bedrooms.
      • 




    • For the luxury seekers – Weavers of Haworth guesthouse. 4 star hotels offering rooms at the hotel and cottages for self-catering.
      •