Tag: Walking England

Lake District – High Street – No shops here but 3 to 5 Wainwrights in the Far Eastern Fells

This is a beautiful and lesser-trodden horseshoe in the Lake District. Ideal if you are looking to bag a few Wainwrights, it includes Mardale Ill Bell, High Street, and Kidsty Pike. If you are keen to maximise your numbers, you can also take a short detour to include The Knott and Rampsgill Head. If you simply want a scenic high-level route, this is a rewarding option that’s not overly demanding. Just be mindful, it can get quite windy up there, so it’s best saved for a clear, calm day. And for wild swimming fans: consider doing the loop in reverse so you can end with a refreshing dip in Small Water.

View on the way to High Street. Looking at Small Water and Hawswater. This route takes in 3 Wainwrights: Mardale Ill bell, High Street and Kidsty Pike. Can easy extend to include The Knott and Rampsgill Head — Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

Superb views across the Lake the District from the top. Click here to open the route on Komoot or contact for the link on other walking apps. — Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

Stats

Difficulty	Moderate to Strenuous – No technical skills required. But a fair amount of Elevation. And some alpine paths. There is a very mild scramble on the descent.
Length	7.9 mi – 12.2 km
Total elevation	2,687 ft – 819m
Highest point	2,703 ft – 824m
Walking time	5h00
Terrain	Walking paths, Alpine paths (including some very mild scramble)
Equipment	Enough water to walk for 5 hrs. There are no pubs or cafes en route or nearby. There are some streams on the way up (until c. 2 miles) and on the way down (c. 5.9 miles) but being on a ridge; nothing in between. Also, think about layers, layers, layers ! It could be a stunning day in the valley but at over 2,500 ft; it can get cold. And again; you will be on ridge, be prepared for the wind-chill.

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Getting there

Driving: Free car-park for 25 cars at Mardale Head, the start of the walk
Public transport: Sadly, this walk cannot be accessed by public transport

Watering Holes

Unfortunately, there are no pubs or cafes within walking distance of this walk. But within a short drive:
The Mardale Inn – Bampton – 16 mins drive
A fantastic community pub. CAMRA approved for its ale.
Closed on Wednesdays. Dinner is served Mon-Tue and Thur – Sat from 16:30-20:30, closes at 19:00 on Sunday. Lunch is available Fri and Sat from 12:00. to 14:00 and Sunday from 12:00-14:30. But you must book ahead for food. Expect pub classics as well as roasts on Sundays. But also some restaurant dishes such as grilled seabass with salsa verde.
Bampton is famous for being the filming location of Withnail & I.
The Punchbowl Inn – Askham – 24 mins drive
My favourite in the area, a traditional country inn dating from the 18th Century. Muddy paws and boots are welcome. Sit outside in the Summer and by the cosy fire in winter.
Fresh, local and home-cooked food is served Mon-Sat from 12:00-15:00 and 17:00-21:00 continuous service on Sunday from 12:00-19:00. Expect pub classics and Sunday roasts.
Good selection of ales and the pub has its own micro-brewery. It also has 6 bedrooms.

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

For walkers and film fans: The Mardale Inn – Bampton
An amazing Community pub with rooms.
See above for more details on the pub. The Inn has 6 cosy rooms. The bed mattresses use Herdwick wool from the are. Toiletries are made in the Valley. The Inn will help you plan (and load routes) for walks nearby if you do not fancy the above. They work closely with the local RSPB reserve to propose activities. Bampton village was used as filming location for Withnail & I; the village’s phone-box has a guest book for the all fans of that classic movie.

For walkers and history fans: The Punchbowl Inn – Askham
A very cosy Inn from the 18th Century.
See above for more details on the pub. The Inn has 6 cosy rooms.
Askham Hall (Lowther Castle) is on its doorstep. A fantastic place to spend the Sunday, soaking in the history and visiting the beautiful gardens.

For the luxury seekers: The Hawswater Inn listed in the 100 best place to stay in the UK by the Times Newspaper and a two rosettes restaurant. This is a beautiful property in a stunning location. A couple of minutes drive from the start of the walk. I cannot vouch for it personally but believe the service and comfort are top-notch. However; rooms cost £150 for no view and up to £380 per night. This is the best place to disconnect (no phone signal and slow wi-fi) for a romantic week-end as long as your budget is not limited.

June 9, 2025

Uppergate Farm: farm animals, a car cafe, Sunday roast and two pints – 11 miles around Holmfirth, Yorkshire

This 11 mile circular walk from Uppergate Farm to Holmfirth was the perfect blend of countryside charm and hearty hospitality. The day began with a gentle hello to the resident animals at the farm before setting off through rolling hills and winding country lanes straight out of Last of the Summer Wine. A mid-morning stop at the Carding Shed served up coffee, cake, and a nostalgic peek at classic cars. From there, the route dipped into woodland paths leading into Holmfirth, where Sunday lunch at The Pickled Pheasant offered a delicious reward. With plenty of hills to walk it off, I continued on to the Boshaw Trout for a well-earned pint of real ale, before one last woodland stretch through Morton Wood ended the day with a final stop at The Butcher’s Arms in Hepworth — the perfect toast to a classic Yorkshire wander.

Rolling hills and winding country lanes straight out of Last of the Summer Wine. Click on the image to watch the video and full set of photographs — Click on this picture to see the full set of picture and video

Morton Wood, nestled near Hepworth in the Holme Valley, is an enchanting woodland and gorge. The bluebells carpeted the grass when we visited in early May.
The woodland stretches along a brook, with footpaths that often criss‑cross the water via stepping‑stones or small wooden bridges, offering a sense of being deeply immersed in nature. Click on this image to open the full route on Komoot — Click on this picture to open the walk on Komoot

Stats

Difficulty	Moderate+ – Technical skills are not required but requires a good level of fitness and appropriate footwear
Length	11 mi – 17.7 km
Total elevation	2,234 ft – 680m
Highest point	1,125 ft – 343m
Walking time	c. 5h00
Terrain	mostly country lanes and grassy footpath. Some forest path and some uneven terrain in the gorge
Equipment	Good boots, those are essential for the muddy Parts in the moors as well as the rocky section in the woods. A map or GPS. Plenty of water and snacks to sustain you through c. 5 hours of Exercise.

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

This 11 mile circular walk from Uppergate Farm to Holmfirth was the perfect blend of countryside charm and hearty hospitality. The day began with a gentle hello to the resident animals at the farm before setting off through rolling hills and winding country lanes straight out of Last of the Summer Wine. A mid-morning stop at the Carding Shed served up coffee, cake, and a nostalgic peek at classic cars. From there, the route dipped into woodland paths leading into Holmfirth, where Sunday lunch at The Pickled Pheasant offered a delicious reward. With plenty of hills to walk it off, I continued on to the Boshaw Trout for a well-earned pint of real ale, before one last woodland stretch through Dean Wood ended the day with a final stop at The Butcher’s Arms in Hepworth — the perfect toast to a classic Yorkshire wander.

Getting there

Driving: On street parking in Hepworth
Public transport:
From Manchester: Train to Huddersfield and bus to Hepworth (c. 1h45)
From Leeds: Train to Huddersfield and bus to Hepworth (c. 1h50)

Watering Holes

The Carding Shed Cafe – Choppards (c. 3 miles into the walk)
A retro‑themed experience that feels like stepping into a bygone era. Styled in 1950s and 60s retro motor chic.
The menu focuses on locally sourced produce, whether you’re enjoying a hearty lunch or a slice of cake. All the cakes are home-made and the two we did try were absolutely delicious. It is dog-friendly and even offers pet blankets you can borrow.
There is an exhibition of classic cars, bikes and vans from the 1930’s onwards.
The Pickled Pheasant – Holmbridge (Half way through the walk)
A beautifully refurbished 18th‑century coaching inn and gastropub.
Food is home-made and absolutely delicious. We enjoyed a full Sunday Roast.
The service is welcoming and friendly, yet efficient.
There is a cosy fire-place to warm yourself up in winter. It is dog-friendly.
The Boshaw Trout– Hade Edge (c. 8.5 miles into the walk)
A welcoming, independent, family-run pub.
The sunny beer garden offers stunning views over the Holme Valley and Boshaw Whams Reservoir.
Inside, the pub is decorated to modern standards but still exudes warmth with roaring fires and a cosy atmosphere.
It offers a selection of up to six cask ales from the local Nook Brewhouse.
The Butcher’s Arms– Hepworth (at the end of the walk)
A quintessential Yorkshire village pub. It has preserved its traditional features, including stone floors, wooden beams, and a welcoming open fire.
We had dinner there on the first night of our stay at Uppergate Farm and enjoyed the food.
You will find outdoor seating at the front and back of the pub. Including covered and sheltered tables at the back.

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay

For a camping week-end: The Rising Sun Farm Campsite (near the route and 20 mins walk to Holmfirth)
Offers basic camping spaces for tents as well as pitches with electric hookups for camper vans and caravans.
There are toilets and shower facilities.
But note that no fires are allowed on the site.

For a romantic and luxurious Glamping week-end: Uppergate Farm, Hepworth (at the start of the route)
We stayed in the Safari Tent.
Equipped with a king sized bed, a cozy seating area anchored by a log-burning stove, and a fully equipped kitchen. It even has its own ensuite bathroom, complete with a walk-in shower, flushing toilet, and hot water on demand.
Outside, the covered deck is fully private thanks to the smart hedging. With a private hot-tub and a firepit for evening BBQ ideal for unwinding after your outdoors adventures.
Deanwood Safari Tent offers the perfect mix of back-to-nature peacefulness and thoughtful luxury—ideal for couples seeking a memorable glamping escape

For a quiet and comfortable stay: Coddy’s Farm between Holmbridge and Hade Edge (on the route)
Housed in a historic building, it offers a unique and charming setting.
There are 6 spacious and ensuite rooms
Breakfast is prepared each morning from fresh ingredients, using their farm produce where possible

For a self-catering family week or week-end: Uppergate Farm, Hepworth (at the start of the route)
As well as the glamping units; the Farm has several cottages to rent. The various units accommodates between 2 to 10 people
Perfect for a self-catering family trip. Some have private hot-tubs.
All guests at the farm can make use of the indoor swimming pool and sauna. And there is a playground for the children.
Furthermore there are a few farm animals to visits, always great fun for both parents and children.
You can buy fresh-eggs from the farm’s free-range hens and several other produced made on the farm.

May 4, 2025

Pen-y-Ghent, the long way: a peak, a pint, a collapsed cavern and a French Patisserie – 16 miles from Austwick, Yorkshire Dales

Pen-y-Ghent is one of the Yorkshire Three Peaks, standing at 694 meters (2,277 feet), it the lowest of the three. Its distinctive shape and dramatic, tiered appearance makes it the most visually striking.
As we were looking for a longer walk, without doing the three peaks; we started in the village of Austwick. Resulting in a 16 miles circular route combining wild limestone country, green fields with lambs, scars and caves (including Hull Pot) and a more solitary approach compared to the classic Horton circuit.

Stats

Difficulty	Strenuous – Technical skills are not required but some level of experience in hiking is necessary, a good level of fitness and appropriate footwear
Length	16 mi – 25.75 km
Total elevation	2,943 ft – 897m
Highest point	2,277 ft – 694m
Walking time	6h00
Terrain	mostly footpaths, gravel tracks, a small section of road and a very short of mountain path That some people describe as a scramble
Equipment	Good boots, those are essential for the muddy Parts in the fields as well as the rocky section of Pen-y-Ghent. Plenty of layers, the weather can be mild in the valley but very windy and chilly at The top. A map or GPS. Plenty of water and snacks to sustain you through c. 5 hours of Exercise.

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or other apps.
Click here for the link on Komoot

Getting there

Driving: On street parking in Austwick Village
Public transport: Bus from Giggleswick train station
From Lancaster: bus to Kirkby Lonsdale then bus to Austwick (c. 1h40)
From Leeds: Train to Giggleswick then bus to Austwick (c. 1h30)https://www.komoot.com/tour/2133823803

Watering Holes

The Helwith Bridge Inn – Helwith Bridge (c. 3.5 miles into the walk)
A great little traditional country pub serving good home cooked food with a warm welcome
Outdoor seating, including some overlooking the river for the summer and cosy fireplace in winter.
Everyone is welcome including wet and muddy dogs. You will find yourself in the company of walkers, climbers, cavers, and cyclists amongst others, as well as the locals of Helwith Bridge and Horton in Ribblesdale.
Accommodation offered on the campsite and bunk barn (see below for details)
The Game Cock Inn – Austwick (Start / end of the walk)
A Traditional Country pub with a genuine French bakery, thanks to Eric, the French Chef / owner.
Food is home-made and offers traditional English pub fayre as well as genuine French food such as onion soup and duck confit parmentier. With the exception of Sundays, for the traditional roast (including vegan options).
It opens at 8:00 am for breakfast with traditional butties, hot-drinks and French pastries.
There is a sunny beer garden and other outside seating for the summer. A cosy fire-place to warm yourself up in winter.

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay

For a basic camping week-end: The Helwith Inn offers basic camping spaces for tents as well as a small bunk house for 4 people.
Toilets are at the side of the pub and there is a cold water only tap.
The bunk barn has a fridge, kettle and basic cooking facilities. You need to bring your sleeping bag and bedding

For a camping week-end with electric hookups: Silloth House Campsite near Austwick
If you have a camper van or caravan, the site offers pitches with electric hookups.
It also has toilets and shower blocks.
There are soft pitches for tents.

For a camping week-end with pods: Buckden camping Heber Farm, Buckden.
A small campsite on a farm.
The 3 camping pods include: lighting, heating, electricity, kettles, a mattress covered seating area which folds down to create a sleeping platform, outdoor seating and access to fridge
They also have soft pitches for tent, some with electric hookup.
And 5 pitches for camper van and 2 caravan pitches. All grass surface with electric hookups
All guests have access to: toilet, warm shower and a communal fridge.
You’ll also find a pub a few minutes walk away.

For a quiet and comfortable stay: The Game Cock Inn – Austwick
The pub has 5 B&B rooms.
Delicious cooked breakfast is included in the price of the night.
But the French chef / owner also runs a genuine French bakery downstairs.
Food is home-cooked and absolutely delicious. (see section above for more details)
All rooms are ensuite and sleep between 1-4.
The pub also offer a self-catering cottage with 3 bedrooms.
If you come by public transport, there is a shuttle service to the train station of Clapham.

For a luxurious and romantic week-end: The Traddock Hotel
A is a small family run 5 star hotel. Set as a typical country house with Georgian and Victorian rooms.
Each rooms are individually designed and the award winning restaurant offers first class food using the best locally sourced ingredients.

April 1, 2025

Padley Gorge and Longshaw: 8 miles in Ancient Moorland and Woodland in the Peak District

Padley Gorge is a beautiful and atmospheric wooded valley in the Peak District National Park, near Grindleford in Derbyshire. It’s known for its ancient oak and birch trees, moss-covered rocks, and gently flowing streams that create a magical, almost enchanted feel.
This walk will take you on a 8 miles circular route combining the magical woodland of Padley Gorge with the open moors of Longshaw.

Stats

Difficulty	Moderate
Length	8 mi – 12.9 km
Total elevation	1,263 ft – 385m
Highest point	1,376 ft – 420m
Walking time	3h50
Terrain	mostly hiking paths and Footpaths
Equipment	Good boots, you are in The Peak District and it can get muddy in Places. Enough water to last you for 4 hours as there are no facilities en route. Plenty of snacks. a good map or gPS

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or other apps.
Click here for Komoot Link

Getting there

Driving: National Trust car-park at Longshaw Estate
Public transport: Grindelford train station
From Manchester: Direct train from Manchester Piccadilly (c. 1h)
From Sheffield: Direct train (c. 20 mins)
From Preston: train to Manchester Piccadilly then train to Grindelford (c. 2hrs)
From Leeds: train to Sheffield then train to Grindelford (c. 1h30)

Watering Holes

The Fox House – Longshaw (at the start / end of the walk if coming by car)
A cosy country pub dating from 1773.
Beer garden for the summer and cosy fireplace in winter.
Part of the Vintage Inns group, it serves pub-classics and stocks real-ale.

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

Grindleford can be reached by public transports and there are several walks from its doorstep.

Or stay at the Fox Hound Inn in Longshaw at the start and end of this walk.

For a budget week-end: Thorpe Farm Bunkhouses – Just outside Hathersage
Several bunkhouses in the Hope Valley
On a working dairy farm. The farm makes its own ice-creams !
They can take groups and individual bookings.
Comfortable self-catering accommodation, including heating, well equipped kitchens, hot showers, toilets and drying facilities.
All mattresses are provided with a sheet, pillow and pillow case. BUT BRING YOUR OWN DUVET / SLEEPING BAG

For a camping week-end: Thorpe Farm – Just outside Hathersage
See above for details.

For a quiet and comfortable stay: The Fox House Inn – Longshaw
Dating back to 1773, this country pub offers 9 comfortable bedrooms. Food is served all-day in the pub downstairs.

For a cosy and car-free week-end: The Sir William in Grindleford
It is a historic coaching inn that has been offering warm rooms, cold beers and stunning views across the picturesque Hope Valley since 1871
There are 8 en-suite bedrooms with a mix of double, twin and family rooms.

For a romantic experience: The Maynard – Grindleford
Premium rooms ranging from from a single snug room to a luxurious suite.
There is a family room available.

March 8, 2025

A French mooch in the Vosges – from Moosch to Auberge Gsang 11 miles

The Vosges Mountains are one of France’s most underrated hiking destinations, often overshadowed by the Alps or the Pyrenees. But that’s exactly what makes them special!
The area offers stunning landscapes; very well maintained paths and more importantly it is a foodie paradise.
Most of it, like the Black Forest in Germany is covered by working forests and what they lack in height compared to their Alpine cousins; they make up for the maintenance of the paths. Making hiking suited to both beginners and more experienced hikers.
Everyone talks about Savoyard cheese in the Alps, but the Vosges have Munster cheese, tarte flambée, blueberry tart, and hearty mountain meals—all served in cozy, rustic inns along the trails, some at high altitude. Most Auberges are family run businesses. On this hike, we stopped at the Auberge Gsang and enjoyed soup, a delicious beef stew, local cheese selection and a dessert all home-made by the couple who run the auberge.

An 11 miles scenic route in the Vosges Mountains in France. With a hot meal at an Auberge half way through the hike (and at 1,000 m of elevation!) - This image will take you to the video of the route and all pictures from the hike — Click on this image to watch the video

Stats

Difficulty	Strenuous
Length	11.1 mi – 17.8 km
Total elevation	2,579 ft – 786m
Highest point	3,501 ft – 1,067m
Walking time	4h50
Terrain	mostly Mountain paths, hiking paths and footpaths
Equipment	Check the mountain forecast Prior to setting off; between November and End of April, you are likely to need microspikes and / or snowshoes to tackle the snow . Enough water and snacks to last you for 5 hours, in case the auberge is closed. a good map or gPS, in particular as the snow on top will hide the paths.

View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)

Getting there

Driving: Car parking in Moosch on Place du Colonel Arnaud Beltrame
Public transport: Moosch TER train station

Watering Holes

Auberge Gsang – Mid-way through the walk (at c. 5.5 miles and elevation of 3,365ft / 1,026m !)
The auberge is a wonderful family-run place by a couple.
Expect dishes of the day such as soup, beef stew and local cheeses. Everything is home-made and delicious.
It is very cosy with a fireplace in winter. And a terrace with a view for the sunnier days.
It is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays and open from 11:00 am but do call ahead to ensure it is open on the day of your hike.
Ferme Auberge du Thanner Hubel – A small detour from the hike (will add a mile in total to your hike and at 3,344ft / 1,025 of altitude !)
If the Auberge Gsang is closed; this one is only closed on Mondays but do check by phone ahead of setting off!
Another family run establishment with home-cooked food at altitude.
I have not visited it and therefore cannot give personal comment.
Pâtisserie-Chocolaterie-Boulangerie Dietschin Fellering / Moosch – At the start / end of the walk
This is perfect to grab breakfast or a coffee before the hike – buy your (back-up) lunch or enjoy a cake an coffee ater the hike.
It is an artisan baker and the quality was excellent

Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

For sleeping at altitude: Ferme Auberge Gsang.
Not only the food is delicious but there are beds you can rent upstairs.
Please note that the farm is only accessible by foot.
And whilst I greatly enjoyed our 3 course lunch there, I have not tried to book a bed.
Information is limited, so you would have to call (in French) to discuss prices and availability

Alternatively, for another bed with altitude, the two ski clubs (Refuge Rossberg from SRC Thann and refuge club Vosges du Thanner Hubel) have refuges with kitchens, shared bathrooms with hot showers and dorm rooms.
You would need to call ahead of time to arrange your stay, and again; speaking French or German is probably a pre-requisite to book.
The two ski clubs charge between 10-15 Euro p.p. per night.
They are not directly on the trails but it will only add an extra mile to your hike to reach them.
Again, no access by car, so think about this when you pack your luggage. And you will need to bring your own food.
The last thing to note is that French Refuge often have the shared beds side by side; it may feel like sharing a large bed with 6 to 8 strangers rather the separate bunk beds we are used to seeing in Youth Hostel.

To suit all tastes and budgets:
On this trip, we were visiting friends in Mulhouse and completed this hike as a day trip.
There are very few accommodation options around Moosch but getting there by train from Mulhouse is very easy.
There are trains every hours and it takes less than an hour. (Every other hour on Sundays)
The staff at the train station in Mulhouse speak German and will be able to help you on timetables and costs.
Mulhouse is vibrant student city and accommodation options are endless as well as reasonably priced.

March 2, 2025