Peregrinating the North West and Beyond

Tag: Walking England

  • Hardcastle Crags, near Hebden Bridge – A lovely walk under 10 miles in Yorkshire with a pub

    Hardcastle Crags is a stunning wooded valley near Hebdgen Bridge in West Yorkshire. It is part of the South Pennines. You will explore a wide variety of flora and fauna in its woodland. And there are a range of facilities, including an old cotton mill now turned into a cafe. There is an interesting willow sculpture of a horse that reminds us of the area’s industrial past and use of similar horses to work the woodland and a couple of waterfalls.

    10 Miles in West Yorkshire Hardcastle Crags is a stunning wooded valley near Hebdgen Bridge in West Yorkshire. It is part of the South Pennines. You will explore a wide variety of flora and fauna in its woodland. And there are a range of facilities, including an old cotton mill now turned into a cafe. There is an interesting willow sculpture of a horse that reminds us of the area's industrial past and use of similar horses to work the woodland and a couple of waterfalls.
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

    Stats
    DifficultyModerate
    Length9.7 mi – 15.6 km
    Total elevation1,371 ft – 418m
    Highest point886 ft – 270m
    Walking time4h00
    TerrainPaths and footpaths
    EquipmentGood shoes, it can get muddy in places.
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

    Getting there
    • Driving: Car Park in Heptonstall
    • Public transport:
      From Manchester: Train from Victoria to Hebden Bridge and bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane (Heptonstall) (< 1h)
      From Leeds: Train to Hebden Bridge and bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane, Heptonstall (1h)
      From York: Train to Leeds then train to Hebden Bridge and bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane, Heptonstall (1h50)
      From Chester: Direct train to Hebden Bridge and bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane (Heptonstall) (1h55)
      From Preston: Direct train to Hebden Bridgend bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane (Heptonstall) (1h30)
      From Sheffield: Train to Leeds then rain to Hebden Bridge and bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane, Heptonstall (1h55)

    Watering Holes
    • The red Lion – Heptonstall – at the beginning or end of the walk.
      A fab traditional village pub with good selection of real ales.
      Sunny beer garden in the summer and roaring wood-fire in winter.
      The food is home-made and offers classic pub fayre, including roast dinners on Sundays.
      Check with the venue for kitchen hours but note the pub is closed on Mon-Tue and does not open until 15:00 on Wednesdays.

    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

    Hebden Bridge is a very vibrant town with a many artists and a solid New Age community.
    The lesbian community is also very solid and one of the largest per capita in England. The community was a pioneer in promoting homonormative culture.
    British Airways magazine has named Hebden Bridge as the 4th quirkiest town in the world to live in. And you will find a wide range of places to eat and drink.
    For music and TV lovers, the town was used by Talk Talk, The Dream Academy and Haddaway for their music clips. Then used for the TV show Happy Valley. And Ed Sheeran grew up in the town.
    Whilst property prices are really high; cost of accommodation for the night are reasonable.

    For the budget conscious: IOU Hebden Bridge vegetarian hostel
    The rooms are very comfortable and reasonably priced. The 6 bed dorm I stayed in (exclusive use for two people) was ensuite with separate loo and shower. The staff was incredibly friendly and welcoming and the self-use kitchen comes in very handy to store food for your hike the next day. The outdoor and indoor common spaces are very comfortable.

    For some luxury or a romantic week-end: The White Lion Inn – Hebden Bridge
    Not to be confused with the White Lion Pub in Heptonstall.
    The rooms are furnished with quality and attention to details. They are very comfortable.
    Fantastic location as it is at the heart of everything: Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops

    For a cosy B&B: Hebble End View B&B – Hebden Bridge
    Excellent value and incredibly cosy.
    There are only two rooms, the bathroom is shared and breakfast is served in the room.
    But the owner is very friendly and the breakfast hearty and high quality.


  • The Howgills and Cautley Spout – The highest waterfall in England

    This hike takes in the Calf (highest point in the Howgill Fells) and Cautley Spout (The highest waterfall in England). The Howgills are in Cumbria, but they are part of the Yorkshire Dale National Park.
    The calf is not part of the 214 Wainwright but Alfred Wainwright enjoyed this route and described it as “The classic high-level walk on the Howgill Fells”

    This 10 miles hike takes in the Calf (highest point in the Howgill Fells) and Cautley Spout (The highest waterfall in England). The Howgills are in Cumbria, but they are part of the Yorkshire Dale National Park. The calf is not part of the 214 Wainwright but Alfred Wainwright enjoyed this route and described it as "The classic high-level walk on the Howgill Fells"
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

    Stats
    DifficultyStrenuous
    Length9.9 mi – 15.9 km
    Total elevation2,654 ft – 809m
    Highest point2,221 ft – 677m
    Walking time4h20
    TerrainPaths and footpaths
    EquipmentGood shoes, the path can get muddy in places and the rocks could be slippy. Sufficient water to last you for 9.5 miles or About 5 hours. Layers As the top can get exposed and windy
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

    Getting there
    • Driving: Car Park on the A683 by after Sedbergh
    • Public transport:
      From Carlisle: Train to Oxenholme and bus S1 or 563 to Sedbergh (c. 1h20)
      From Lancaster: Train to Oxenholme and bus S1 or 563 to Sedbergh (c. 45)
      From Manchester: Train from Piccadilly to Oxenholme and bus S1 or 563 to Sedbergh (c. 2hrs)
      From Preston: Train to Oxenholme and bus S1 or 563 to Sedbergh (c. 1h00)

    Watering Holes
    • The Cross Key Temperance Inn – About 3.5 miles into the walk if you started at the car-park – or 5 miles if you started in Sedbergh
      A very cosy cafe and book-store in a 400 years old Inn.
      Great stop for coffee and cake before climbing the fall. The scones are home-made.
      If you are stopping for lunch you will find soup, bacon sandwiches and classic pub fayre.
      Note it does not serve alcohol and call ahead of time to ensure it is open during your visit.
    • The Thirsty Rambler – Sedbergh
      This is a fabulous micro-bar. Muddy paws and boots are always welcome.
      All ales and larger are sourced from small local suppliers.
      A very friendly place where you will find fellow hikers. As the place is so small it operates on a first come first seat basis.
      Don’t be offended if someone you have never met before sits next you and start up a conversation; it is that kind of place !
      No food served unless you pre-book the whole place. And opening hours are very restricted. Check the website ahead of time to ensure it is open at the time of your visit.

    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

    Sedbergh is home to a famous boarding school. But not a bad place to spend the week-end. It is on the Dales Way.
    Although a very small town, there are a few pubs, inns and cafes. And the Howgills will offer plenty of walking and cycling routes for your week-end.

    For large groups: Sedbergh Barn – Sedbergh
    For whole property rental only. The barn will sleep 35 in 8 bunk rooms.
    There is a 2 nights rental minimum.
    Quite a luxury barn: hot-tub, game room and drying room.
    Each rooms have an ensuite and there are extra toilets on the landing.
    Two kitchens and a large dining area.

    For a romantic week-end: The Dalesman Country Inn – Sedbergh
    Luxury accommodation and 2 AA rosette restaurant.
    An old coaching Inn with 6 rooms, all furnished individually and with luxurious soft-furnitures and bedding.
    Slightly more expensive than the other inn in town but the small difference is worth it in my opinion.
    For lunch, expect traditional pub fayre at reasonable price. For dinner, there is the option of the classic fish and chips or more gastro dishes such as venison loin when in season.

    For a cosy cottage: The Old Chair Workshop – Sedbergh
    A cosy little studio cottage that sleeps 2 in a double bed.
    Please note there is no internet !

    For the Camper: Farm & Fell Camping – Sedbergh
    Open from Easter to August.
    There are 3 fields: family, classic and quiet (no noise on the quiet field between 20:00-8:00)
    The campsite will accept tents, camper vans and motorhomes. Each pitches has a fire-pit.
    It offers communal showers. Serves hot-food at certain hours from the farm-yard and a bar with live music in busy periods


  • Wansfell Pike – 7.5 miles, an easy Wainwright with a pint – Lake District, Far Eastern Fells

    This is an ideal route if your heart is set on ticking Wainwrights regardless of the weather. The paths are excellent and easy to find. With a summit below 1,500ft it is a great one to keep for the winter.
    Start in Ambleside, where you will find samples facilities and Troutbeck is just after the descent. An ideal spot to stop for a warming bowl of soup or a drink by the fire-place. The route back to Ambleside is fairly flat and straightforward (Coffin Route)

    This is an ideal route if your heart is set on ticking Wainwrights regardless of the weather. The paths are excellent and easy to find. With a summit below 1,500ft it is a great one to keep for the winter. Start in Ambleside, where you will find samples facilities and Troutbeck is just after the descent. An ideal spot to stop for a warming bowl of soup or a drink by the fire-place. The route back to Ambleside is fairly flat and straightforward (Coffin Route)
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

    Stats
    DifficultyModerate
    Length7.5 mi – 12 km
    Total elevation1,824 ft – 556m
    Highest point1,500 ft – 457m
    Walking time3h20
    TerrainFootpaths, Bridleway and road
    EquipmentGood shoes, it can get muddy in places. Layers as it can get windy on top.
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

    Getting there
    • Driving: Car Park in Ambleside
    • Public transport:
      From Carlisle: Train to Oxenholme, then train to Windermere then bus 555 to Ambleside (1h30)
      From Lancaster: Train to Oxenholme then train to Windermere and bus 555 to Ambleside (< 1h)
      From Manchester: Train from Piccadilly to Oxenholme then train to Windermere and bus 555 to Ambleside (< 2h)
      From Preston: Train to Oxenholme, then train to Windermere then bus 555 to Ambleside (1h15)

    Watering Holes
    • The Mortal Man – Troutbeck – 3 miles in and straight after the descent.
      A fab traditional village inn dating from 1689.
      Muddy paws and boots are always welcome.
      The pub is big on supporting charities and will donate 10% of the sales on their cask ale to their favourite charity.
      For the food, expect pub classics with local ingredients, roast dinners on Sunday and more gastro dishes for the evening such as Venison Haunch when in season.
      There are 3 sections to the pub for a traditional cosy corner with board games to more formal dining.
      Fantastic beer-garden in the summer and roaring fireplaces to warm you up in winter.
      Back to the beer garden, it was voted in the top 10 in UK by the Times newspaper !
    • The Unicorn Inn – Ambleside – End of the walk
      My preferred pub in Ambleside is the Unicorn. Muddy boots and paws are welcome.
      Part of the Robinson Brewery, it is situated in the centre of Ambleside, yet away from the hustle and bustle.
      There is a decent selection of real ales and the food is home-cooked. The Sunday roasts are delicious.
      The only downside is the lack of outdoor seating and cosy fireplace. But this is the oldest pub in Ambleside. It offers a warm atmosphere and the staff are very welcoming.




    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

    Ambleside is a great town to stay at for a week-end in the Lake District.
    Less crowded than Windermere, yet accessible if you are coming from the South.
    It hosts a wide range of bars, pubs and restaurants as well as shopping facilities.
    Watch your purse if you are after walking gear …. there are several shops to suit all budgets. From Mountain Warehouse and Trespass, to Gaynor for the midd to upper mid-range and the Epi Centre for high end designers.

    Alternatively, for a quieter week-end centered around walking only; Troutbeck is a nice village and the Mortal Man has recently refurbished their rooms.

    For a week-end of great food and fab walks: The Mortal Man in Troutbeck
    The 11 rooms have been gradually refurbished since January 2023. At least one of them has a four poster bed.
    The inn welcomes all pets (Dogs, cats, parrots etc) and has several cats of their own.
    The ducks on the pond will provide your eggs for breakfast.
    separate loo and shower. The staff was incredibly friendly and welcoming and the self-use kitchen comes in very handy to store food for your hike the next day. The outdoor and indoor common spaces are very comfortable.

    For a luxury or romantic week-end: The Salutation Inn – Ambleside
    Although very modern looking, the hotel has been there for 350 years!
    Perfect for a romantic couple’s weekend, some rooms have their own hot-tubs.
    70 bedrooms in total. Rooms with private balconies, private hot-tubs and rooms with private sauna. The various categories will fit all levels of extra luxuries and budget.
    All with access to the impressive spa facilities included in the price. As well as the sauna and hammer.
    The quality and choice of the breakfast is notorious. It has won several awards and you can get extras such as kipper, smoked haddock or a full Cumberland breakfast experience.
    Again; the hotel is slightly outside the town centre but boasts stunning views over Windermere.

    For tight budgets: YHA Ambleside – Ambleside
    The hostel has private rooms, dorms, and family rooms.
    Slightly ex-centered, it offers great views over Windermere. And for those who like to swim; there is a pontoon right outside the door.
    The bar has a great atmosphere; and by Ambleside standards is reasonably priced.


  • Burnsall – A 12 miler in the Yorkshire Dales with a pub

    Burnsall is one of the prettiest villages in the Wharfedale valley; North Yorkshire.
    Hike up Cracoe fell and to Rylstone Cross for stunning views of the valley.

    12 miles hike in the Yorkshire Dales from the picturesque village of Burnsall. Stunning views of the Wharfedale from Cracoe fell and Rylestone Cross
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

    Stats
    DifficultyModerate
    Length12 mi – 19.5 km
    Total elevation2,116 ft – 645m
    Highest point1,610 ft – 490m
    Walking time4h20
    TerrainPaths and footpaths
    EquipmentSufficient water to keep you going for 12 mi or 5 hours (There are no shops or pubs en route). Some layers as it can get windy and exposed.
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    12 miles hike in the Yorkshire Dales from the picturesque village of Burnsall. Stunning views of the Wharfedale from Cracoe fell and Rylestone Cross
    Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

    Getting there
    • Driving: Car Park in front of Riverbank Burnsall (fee-paying)
    • Public transport: Sadly, the walk is not easily accessible by public transport. It takes 2 busses from Skipton to reach Burnsall.

    Watering Holes
    • The red Lion – Burnsall – at the beginning or end of the walk.
      A Thwaites Brewery owned pub and hotel.
      Outdoor seating in the summer and roaring wood-fire in winter.
      The food is excellent and focuses on local produce but priced on the high side.
      Expect pub classics served from 12:00-21:00 daily.

    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

    Burnsall is one of the prettiest villages of the Wharfe Valley and only a stone-throw away from Grassington.
    Make a week-end of it walking in the area as the possibilities are endless. For film and TV aficionados, Calendar Girls as well as All Creatures Great & Small have used the village as filming location.

    For a luxury and gourmet stay: The Devonshire Fell – Burnsall
    It only has 16 rooms and all are decorated individually.
    The food there is exceptional. It offers a bistro for less formal dining, yet offering classics like fish & chips as well as gastro-pub fares such as char-sui pork belly. Whilst the restaurant has been awarded 2 AA rosettes.
    Rooms are not cheap but the hotel offers an good package for 2 nights stay, dinner, afternoon tea and spa.

    For self-catering, small groups or families: Moorside Farm cottage – Hebden
    Not in Burnsall but between Grassington and Burnsall. There are good walks from its doorstep.
    A stunning stone-built farm with 4 bedrooms. (2 twins and 2 doubles) And 3 bathrooms
    Very cosy with log-burner in the sitting room, a large very well equipped kitchen and a dining room.
    The owner was brought up in the house and has renovated the property with her family.

    For a cosy B&B: The Green – Burnsall
    With only 3 rooms, each has a king-sized bed and ensuite bathroom.
    The owner can make you a packed a lunch if you are planning to spend your day on the fells.

  • Forest of Bowland: 10 miles from Dunsop Bridge with a cafe and my favourite Inn in the area

    Close to both the Yorkshire Dales and the Lake District; the Forest of Bowland is often forgotten and underrated. But it is a very stunning area (AONB status), and you will often have the walk for yourself !
    And for the fans of architectures, the area has 500 listed buildings and 18 scheduled monuments. When I first moved to the area, I did not understand why it was called a forest and yet I could see so few trees. This comes from the traditional term used to described a royal hunting ground. You will mostly found heather moorlands and blanket bogs.

    Close to both the Yorkshire Dales and the Lake District; the Forest of Bowland is often forgotten and underrated. But it is a very stunning area (AONB status), and you will often have the walk for yourself ! And for the fans of architectures, the area has 500 listed buildings and 18 scheduled monuments. When I first moved to the area, I did not understand why it was called a forest and yet I could see so few trees. This comes from the traditional term used to described a royal hunting ground. You will mostly found heather moorlands and blanket bogs.
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

    Stats
    DifficultyModerate to strenuous. No great ups and downs but over 10 miles
    Length10.2 mi – 16.4 km
    Total elevation1,627 ft – 496m
    Highest point956ft – 292m
    Walking time4h20
    Terrainpaths, footpaths and road
    EquipmentWaterproof shoes as you will be crossing some stepping stone and some parts of the walk could get boggy
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    Hike of c. 10 miles and 1,500 ft of elevation in the stunning Forest of Bowland. Take good waterproof shoes as some paths can be muddy. However, Bowland is very underrated as a beautiful area to walk in, away from the crowds of the Lake Districts and Yorkshire Dales
    Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

    Getting there
    • Driving: Some free parking on Trough Road, and paid car-park in Dunsop Bridge. Alternatively, if you prefer starting and finishing at the Inn in Whitewell; some parking at the corner of Little Bowland Road and River Hodder
    • Public transport: Bus 11 from Clitheroe (C. 45 mins)
    • From Preston: Train to Blackburn then train to Clitheroe then bus 11 to War Memorial (c. 2h)

    Watering Holes
    • The Inn at Whitewell – Whitewell – 5.5 miles into the walk
      My favourite in the area. This is a 16th Century former coaching Inn.
      Check before you go as this is a popular wedding venue.
      Fab local ales as well as home-cooked gastro food using local ingredients.
      Pub classics for lunch and gastro-pub dishes for supper. This is also a place to eat local Game when in season. The kitchen is open every day from 12:00-14:00 and Mon-Thu 19:00-21:00 as well as Fri-Sun 18:30-21:00.
      There are several rooms for food and drinks. All with peat-fires burning.
      Even though the Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip had the queen’s celebratory 80th birthday lunch at the Inn; the Inn has won an array of awards; the service is very professional and friendly.

    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

    The forest of Bowland is a very enchanting place to spend the week-end. With several picturesque villages, an array of stunning walks and so many good places to eat, drink and relax

    For a luxury and romantic week-end: The Inn at Whitewell
    24 bedrooms, all individually decorated with antique furnitures and luxurious soft furnishing.
    Rooms price start just under £200 on B&B basis

    For Glamping (and seeing the meerkats): Bowland Escapes
    Offers lodges for families and groups up to 6, camping pods, safari tents, an Iron Age storehouse and one cosy and romantic shepherd’s hut. It also has 5 soft grass pitch for tents.
    All accomodations offer free entry to the wild boar park. Which hosts other animals such as alpacas and some meerkats !

    For groups on budgets: YHA Slaidburn – Slaidburn
    The hostel will accommodate up to 30 people ! But can only be booked as a whole venue on a self-catering basis
    Minimum stay of 2 nights. However, week-nights are prices at £200 per night and the price doubles for week-end night
    Open wood-fire in the common rooms. And drying room for your walking gear.
    If you do not fancy staying in for meals and drinks; there is a great pub across the road. And the village has a shop if you have forgotten any supplies.
    However, note there is no phone signal or wifi.