Peregrinating the North West and Beyond

Tag: Walking

  • Great Asby Scar, Rutter Force and Appleby – 11 miles with a mill and a pint – Cumbria

    This is a fairly flat walk with no hills to climb or dramatic ups and downs but still takes 1,600 ft of total elevation. Starting at Orton Scar and ending in Appleby; it takes in part of the Dales Way.
    A little more than half way through; you will find Rutter Force – this is an ideal spot to stop for your packed lunch or a break.
    Rutter Force is a man-made waterfall that feeds a water wheel.
    It dates back from 1579! The original wheel has been replaced since then; and the mill has been converted to an AirBnB.
    But it was initially set-up as a corn mill and later converted to a bobbin mill in 1832.
    Eventually turned into a saw mill and later used to power the local church and residents with electricity. The National Grid did reach the area in 1952 and the wheel has been used a decorative feature ever since.
    There are no technical skills required for this route and it can be completed year-round. But make sure you have good boots or shoes as it can get muddy in places. And ensure you take enough water and snacks to sustain you for the 11 miles as there are no facilities en-route.

    Westmorland. Fairly flat, yet undulating, it takes in Rutter Force waterfall and more of the beauty of the Eden Valley. Mostly footpath and bridleways; this is ideal as a winter-walk. Note that as a linear; you will need a two cars.
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

    Stats
    DifficultyModerate
    Length11 mi – 17.6 km
    Total elevation1,165 ft – 355m
    Highest point1,246 ft – 380m
    Walking time4h00
    Terrainmostly footpath and bridleways
    EquipmentGood shoes, it can get muddy in places. Enough water to last you for 4 hours. Plenty of snacks as there are no facilities en route
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

    Getting there
    • Driving: This is a linear walk – you will need to cars. One at the start point and the other in Appleby in Westmorland.
      The start car-park is after the village of Orton and Orton Quarry (if coming from the south / west) on the B6260
    • Public transport: Unfortunately, this is not an easy to walk to access by public transport.

    Watering Holes
    • The Crown and Cushion Inn – Appleby in Westmorland – at the end of the walk.
      A cosy and traditional Cumbrian pub with rooms.
      Muddy boots and paws are welcome and there is a beer garden for the Summer.
      The food is home-cooked. Expect traditional pub fayre and it is open from breakfast.
      I really enjoyed my traditional minted lamb hot-pot.
      The kitchen is open from 08:00 to 20:30 every-day.


    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

    Appleby in Westmorland is a very nice town to spend the week-end. But avoid during the Appleby Fair, usually on the first week of June .
    There are plenty of walking and cycling routes around in the superb Eden Valley.
    And is a good spot for foodies. Appleby Creamery makes Appleby brie cheese. And if the weather is too bad to walk; the castle has an interesting centre of Norman History
    There are several pubs, cafes and restaurants as the main economy in town remains the tourism industry.

    For a cosy stay that doesn’t break the bank: The Crown and Cushion – Appleby in Westmorland
    This Robinson Brewery owned inn offers 5 comfortable rooms, including a one bedroom self-contained cottage.

    For a unique and romantic experience: Appleby Castle – Appleby in Westmorland
    The Castle offers a dozen bedrooms and self-contained cottages.
    All decorated in individual and traditional style, many of the bedrooms in the castle have 4 poster beds.
    Those most striking rooms do not come cheap but are perfect for a week-end celebrating special occasions.
    For the more budget conscious, there are more affordable rooms in the old servant’s quarter.
    Dinner is served in the 15th Century dining room. And offers both tasting menu and a la carte.

    For a unique family experience: The cottage at Rutter Force – Great Asby
    With a balcony over-looking the force and just above the water wheel; this is a unique place.
    And a chance to spot red squirrels during your morning coffee.
    The cosy cottage can be rented via AirBnB and has 2 bedrooms.
    But you can only check-in on Mondays and Fridays.
    As the place is quite quirky the owner does not accept children under 12 years old. This is purely for safety reasons.
    Both rooms have double beds (no twins) and one of the bedroom is behind a curtain on the mezzanine.
    As any quirky places; love it or hate it. But for wild-life lovers or any one seeking a different experience, this is an ideal place to spend a couple of nights.


  • Bannerdale Crags & Bowscale Fell – 2 Wainwrights, 1 tarn and 1 pint – Lake District, Northern Fells

    Coming out of Mungrisdale, we followed the river for a while. Be prepared for mud as the area is boggy. Rather than taking the path that goes right by the Tongue; we took a lesser used path to get straight up to Bannerdale Crags Summit.
    The fews are amazing from that wide ridge path.
    This route does not require advanced technical skills but there is a little rocky section just before reaching the top of Bannerdale Crags. Again, the views of the Crags are quite impressive from that path.
    If the weather conditions are too wet or you would like to bag an extra Wainwright; extend the walk y taking the path on the other side of the river and take in Souther Fell.
    Once at the top, you’ll get a good view of Sharp Edge and Blencathra.
    Hope you have a taken good layers with you. Even though it was a sunny clear day; it didn’t take long for my gloves and hat to come out of the bag. The flat plateau is very exposed to the wind.
    For lunch, there is a shelter the top of Bowscale Fell or you can wait until you have reached the tarn.
    We decided to enjoy the tarn rather than bag Tarn Crags Top on that day.
    Going down to the tarn is a steep and grassy path. Nothing technical but mind your knees.
    Again, you could take a gentler way down and bag another Wainwright by avoiding the tarn and descending towards Tarn Crags

    Only 7miles but with a strenuous 2,000ft of ascent. This hike takes in 2 to 4 Wainwrights depending on the route you choose (you would have to opt out of the tarn for the 4th). Starting in Mungrisdale, to reveal some stunning views of Bannerdale Crags, Sharp Edge and Blencathra. With the original route, you will complete Bannerdale Crags and Bowscale Fell (with a descent via Bowscale Tarn) but you can tweak the route to include Souther Fell and Tarn Crag.
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

    Stats
    DifficultyStrenuous
    Length7.6 mi – 12.2 km
    Total elevation2,018 ft – 615m
    Highest point2,192 ft – 668m
    Walking time3h25
    Terrainfootpaths, rocky paths, boggy paths, road
    EquipmentGood shoes, it can get muddy in places. Enough water to last you for 4 hours. This is quite a strenuous ascent. Layers as the top is really chilly and windy.
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

    Getting there
    • Driving: Car Park in Mungrisdale
    • Public transport: Unfortunately, this is not an easy to walk to access by public transport.

    Watering Holes
    • The Mill Inn – Mungrisdale – at the beginning or end of the walk.
      Part of the Robinson’s brewery. This is the only pub in Mungrisdale.
      Muddy boots and paws are welcome and the atmosphere is friendly.
      There is a beer garden for the summer and roaring wood-fires in winter.
      Selection of real ales and delicious home-cooked food.
      Expect traditional pub fayre and roast dinners on Sundays. But please note the pub is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

    Mungrisdale is ideally situated for a week-end of walking and cycling. It is located on the cycling Coast to Coast route.
    And there are numerous fell and lower level walks starting from the village.
    With only one pub and one tea-room; it is the ideal place to spend a peaceful week-end away from the hustle and bustle.

    For a cosy Inn: The Mill Inn offers
    This 17th Century Inn offers half a dozen rooms.
    The rooms are cozy and dogs are welcome.

    .


  • Hardcastle Crags, near Hebden Bridge – A lovely walk under 10 miles in Yorkshire with a pub

    Hardcastle Crags is a stunning wooded valley near Hebdgen Bridge in West Yorkshire. It is part of the South Pennines. You will explore a wide variety of flora and fauna in its woodland. And there are a range of facilities, including an old cotton mill now turned into a cafe. There is an interesting willow sculpture of a horse that reminds us of the area’s industrial past and use of similar horses to work the woodland and a couple of waterfalls.

    10 Miles in West Yorkshire Hardcastle Crags is a stunning wooded valley near Hebdgen Bridge in West Yorkshire. It is part of the South Pennines. You will explore a wide variety of flora and fauna in its woodland. And there are a range of facilities, including an old cotton mill now turned into a cafe. There is an interesting willow sculpture of a horse that reminds us of the area's industrial past and use of similar horses to work the woodland and a couple of waterfalls.
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

    Stats
    DifficultyModerate
    Length9.7 mi – 15.6 km
    Total elevation1,371 ft – 418m
    Highest point886 ft – 270m
    Walking time4h00
    TerrainPaths and footpaths
    EquipmentGood shoes, it can get muddy in places.
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

    Getting there
    • Driving: Car Park in Heptonstall
    • Public transport:
      From Manchester: Train from Victoria to Hebden Bridge and bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane (Heptonstall) (< 1h)
      From Leeds: Train to Hebden Bridge and bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane, Heptonstall (1h)
      From York: Train to Leeds then train to Hebden Bridge and bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane, Heptonstall (1h50)
      From Chester: Direct train to Hebden Bridge and bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane (Heptonstall) (1h55)
      From Preston: Direct train to Hebden Bridgend bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane (Heptonstall) (1h30)
      From Sheffield: Train to Leeds then rain to Hebden Bridge and bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane, Heptonstall (1h55)

    Watering Holes
    • The red Lion – Heptonstall – at the beginning or end of the walk.
      A fab traditional village pub with good selection of real ales.
      Sunny beer garden in the summer and roaring wood-fire in winter.
      The food is home-made and offers classic pub fayre, including roast dinners on Sundays.
      Check with the venue for kitchen hours but note the pub is closed on Mon-Tue and does not open until 15:00 on Wednesdays.

    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

    Hebden Bridge is a very vibrant town with a many artists and a solid New Age community.
    The lesbian community is also very solid and one of the largest per capita in England. The community was a pioneer in promoting homonormative culture.
    British Airways magazine has named Hebden Bridge as the 4th quirkiest town in the world to live in. And you will find a wide range of places to eat and drink.
    For music and TV lovers, the town was used by Talk Talk, The Dream Academy and Haddaway for their music clips. Then used for the TV show Happy Valley. And Ed Sheeran grew up in the town.
    Whilst property prices are really high; cost of accommodation for the night are reasonable.

    For the budget conscious: IOU Hebden Bridge vegetarian hostel
    The rooms are very comfortable and reasonably priced. The 6 bed dorm I stayed in (exclusive use for two people) was ensuite with separate loo and shower. The staff was incredibly friendly and welcoming and the self-use kitchen comes in very handy to store food for your hike the next day. The outdoor and indoor common spaces are very comfortable.

    For some luxury or a romantic week-end: The White Lion Inn – Hebden Bridge
    Not to be confused with the White Lion Pub in Heptonstall.
    The rooms are furnished with quality and attention to details. They are very comfortable.
    Fantastic location as it is at the heart of everything: Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops

    For a cosy B&B: Hebble End View B&B – Hebden Bridge
    Excellent value and incredibly cosy.
    There are only two rooms, the bathroom is shared and breakfast is served in the room.
    But the owner is very friendly and the breakfast hearty and high quality.


  • The Howgills and Cautley Spout – The highest waterfall in England

    This hike takes in the Calf (highest point in the Howgill Fells) and Cautley Spout (The highest waterfall in England). The Howgills are in Cumbria, but they are part of the Yorkshire Dale National Park.
    The calf is not part of the 214 Wainwright but Alfred Wainwright enjoyed this route and described it as “The classic high-level walk on the Howgill Fells”

    This 10 miles hike takes in the Calf (highest point in the Howgill Fells) and Cautley Spout (The highest waterfall in England). The Howgills are in Cumbria, but they are part of the Yorkshire Dale National Park. The calf is not part of the 214 Wainwright but Alfred Wainwright enjoyed this route and described it as "The classic high-level walk on the Howgill Fells"
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

    Stats
    DifficultyStrenuous
    Length9.9 mi – 15.9 km
    Total elevation2,654 ft – 809m
    Highest point2,221 ft – 677m
    Walking time4h20
    TerrainPaths and footpaths
    EquipmentGood shoes, the path can get muddy in places and the rocks could be slippy. Sufficient water to last you for 9.5 miles or About 5 hours. Layers As the top can get exposed and windy
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

    Getting there
    • Driving: Car Park on the A683 by after Sedbergh
    • Public transport:
      From Carlisle: Train to Oxenholme and bus S1 or 563 to Sedbergh (c. 1h20)
      From Lancaster: Train to Oxenholme and bus S1 or 563 to Sedbergh (c. 45)
      From Manchester: Train from Piccadilly to Oxenholme and bus S1 or 563 to Sedbergh (c. 2hrs)
      From Preston: Train to Oxenholme and bus S1 or 563 to Sedbergh (c. 1h00)

    Watering Holes
    • The Cross Key Temperance Inn – About 3.5 miles into the walk if you started at the car-park – or 5 miles if you started in Sedbergh
      A very cosy cafe and book-store in a 400 years old Inn.
      Great stop for coffee and cake before climbing the fall. The scones are home-made.
      If you are stopping for lunch you will find soup, bacon sandwiches and classic pub fayre.
      Note it does not serve alcohol and call ahead of time to ensure it is open during your visit.
    • The Thirsty Rambler – Sedbergh
      This is a fabulous micro-bar. Muddy paws and boots are always welcome.
      All ales and larger are sourced from small local suppliers.
      A very friendly place where you will find fellow hikers. As the place is so small it operates on a first come first seat basis.
      Don’t be offended if someone you have never met before sits next you and start up a conversation; it is that kind of place !
      No food served unless you pre-book the whole place. And opening hours are very restricted. Check the website ahead of time to ensure it is open at the time of your visit.

    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

    Sedbergh is home to a famous boarding school. But not a bad place to spend the week-end. It is on the Dales Way.
    Although a very small town, there are a few pubs, inns and cafes. And the Howgills will offer plenty of walking and cycling routes for your week-end.

    For large groups: Sedbergh Barn – Sedbergh
    For whole property rental only. The barn will sleep 35 in 8 bunk rooms.
    There is a 2 nights rental minimum.
    Quite a luxury barn: hot-tub, game room and drying room.
    Each rooms have an ensuite and there are extra toilets on the landing.
    Two kitchens and a large dining area.

    For a romantic week-end: The Dalesman Country Inn – Sedbergh
    Luxury accommodation and 2 AA rosette restaurant.
    An old coaching Inn with 6 rooms, all furnished individually and with luxurious soft-furnitures and bedding.
    Slightly more expensive than the other inn in town but the small difference is worth it in my opinion.
    For lunch, expect traditional pub fayre at reasonable price. For dinner, there is the option of the classic fish and chips or more gastro dishes such as venison loin when in season.

    For a cosy cottage: The Old Chair Workshop – Sedbergh
    A cosy little studio cottage that sleeps 2 in a double bed.
    Please note there is no internet !

    For the Camper: Farm & Fell Camping – Sedbergh
    Open from Easter to August.
    There are 3 fields: family, classic and quiet (no noise on the quiet field between 20:00-8:00)
    The campsite will accept tents, camper vans and motorhomes. Each pitches has a fire-pit.
    It offers communal showers. Serves hot-food at certain hours from the farm-yard and a bar with live music in busy periods


  • Wansfell Pike – 7.5 miles, an easy Wainwright with a pint – Lake District, Far Eastern Fells

    This is an ideal route if your heart is set on ticking Wainwrights regardless of the weather. The paths are excellent and easy to find. With a summit below 1,500ft it is a great one to keep for the winter.
    Start in Ambleside, where you will find samples facilities and Troutbeck is just after the descent. An ideal spot to stop for a warming bowl of soup or a drink by the fire-place. The route back to Ambleside is fairly flat and straightforward (Coffin Route)

    This is an ideal route if your heart is set on ticking Wainwrights regardless of the weather. The paths are excellent and easy to find. With a summit below 1,500ft it is a great one to keep for the winter. Start in Ambleside, where you will find samples facilities and Troutbeck is just after the descent. An ideal spot to stop for a warming bowl of soup or a drink by the fire-place. The route back to Ambleside is fairly flat and straightforward (Coffin Route)
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

    Stats
    DifficultyModerate
    Length7.5 mi – 12 km
    Total elevation1,824 ft – 556m
    Highest point1,500 ft – 457m
    Walking time3h20
    TerrainFootpaths, Bridleway and road
    EquipmentGood shoes, it can get muddy in places. Layers as it can get windy on top.
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

    Getting there
    • Driving: Car Park in Ambleside
    • Public transport:
      From Carlisle: Train to Oxenholme, then train to Windermere then bus 555 to Ambleside (1h30)
      From Lancaster: Train to Oxenholme then train to Windermere and bus 555 to Ambleside (< 1h)
      From Manchester: Train from Piccadilly to Oxenholme then train to Windermere and bus 555 to Ambleside (< 2h)
      From Preston: Train to Oxenholme, then train to Windermere then bus 555 to Ambleside (1h15)

    Watering Holes
    • The Mortal Man – Troutbeck – 3 miles in and straight after the descent.
      A fab traditional village inn dating from 1689.
      Muddy paws and boots are always welcome.
      The pub is big on supporting charities and will donate 10% of the sales on their cask ale to their favourite charity.
      For the food, expect pub classics with local ingredients, roast dinners on Sunday and more gastro dishes for the evening such as Venison Haunch when in season.
      There are 3 sections to the pub for a traditional cosy corner with board games to more formal dining.
      Fantastic beer-garden in the summer and roaring fireplaces to warm you up in winter.
      Back to the beer garden, it was voted in the top 10 in UK by the Times newspaper !
    • The Unicorn Inn – Ambleside – End of the walk
      My preferred pub in Ambleside is the Unicorn. Muddy boots and paws are welcome.
      Part of the Robinson Brewery, it is situated in the centre of Ambleside, yet away from the hustle and bustle.
      There is a decent selection of real ales and the food is home-cooked. The Sunday roasts are delicious.
      The only downside is the lack of outdoor seating and cosy fireplace. But this is the oldest pub in Ambleside. It offers a warm atmosphere and the staff are very welcoming.




    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

    Ambleside is a great town to stay at for a week-end in the Lake District.
    Less crowded than Windermere, yet accessible if you are coming from the South.
    It hosts a wide range of bars, pubs and restaurants as well as shopping facilities.
    Watch your purse if you are after walking gear …. there are several shops to suit all budgets. From Mountain Warehouse and Trespass, to Gaynor for the midd to upper mid-range and the Epi Centre for high end designers.

    Alternatively, for a quieter week-end centered around walking only; Troutbeck is a nice village and the Mortal Man has recently refurbished their rooms.

    For a week-end of great food and fab walks: The Mortal Man in Troutbeck
    The 11 rooms have been gradually refurbished since January 2023. At least one of them has a four poster bed.
    The inn welcomes all pets (Dogs, cats, parrots etc) and has several cats of their own.
    The ducks on the pond will provide your eggs for breakfast.
    separate loo and shower. The staff was incredibly friendly and welcoming and the self-use kitchen comes in very handy to store food for your hike the next day. The outdoor and indoor common spaces are very comfortable.

    For a luxury or romantic week-end: The Salutation Inn – Ambleside
    Although very modern looking, the hotel has been there for 350 years!
    Perfect for a romantic couple’s weekend, some rooms have their own hot-tubs.
    70 bedrooms in total. Rooms with private balconies, private hot-tubs and rooms with private sauna. The various categories will fit all levels of extra luxuries and budget.
    All with access to the impressive spa facilities included in the price. As well as the sauna and hammer.
    The quality and choice of the breakfast is notorious. It has won several awards and you can get extras such as kipper, smoked haddock or a full Cumberland breakfast experience.
    Again; the hotel is slightly outside the town centre but boasts stunning views over Windermere.

    For tight budgets: YHA Ambleside – Ambleside
    The hostel has private rooms, dorms, and family rooms.
    Slightly ex-centered, it offers great views over Windermere. And for those who like to swim; there is a pontoon right outside the door.
    The bar has a great atmosphere; and by Ambleside standards is reasonably priced.