Peregrinating the North West and Beyond

Tag: Yorkshire

  • Uppergate Farm: farm animals, a car cafe, Sunday roast and two pints – 11 miles around Holmfirth, Yorkshire

    This 11 mile circular walk from Uppergate Farm to Holmfirth was the perfect blend of countryside charm and hearty hospitality. The day began with a gentle hello to the resident animals at the farm before setting off through rolling hills and winding country lanes straight out of Last of the Summer Wine. A mid-morning stop at the Carding Shed served up coffee, cake, and a nostalgic peek at classic cars. From there, the route dipped into woodland paths leading into Holmfirth, where Sunday lunch at The Pickled Pheasant offered a delicious reward. With plenty of hills to walk it off, I continued on to the Boshaw Trout for a well-earned pint of real ale, before one last woodland stretch through Morton Wood ended the day with a final stop at The Butcher’s Arms in Hepworth — the perfect toast to a classic Yorkshire wander.

    Rolling hills and winding country lanes straight out of Last of the Summer Wine. Click on the image to watch the video and full set of photographs
    Click on this picture to see the full set of picture and video
    Morton Wood, nestled near Hepworth in the Holme Valley, is an enchanting woodland and gorge. The bluebells carpeted the grass when we visited in early May. The woodland stretches along a brook, with footpaths that often criss‑cross the water via stepping‑stones or small wooden bridges, offering a sense of being deeply immersed in nature. Click on this image to open the full route on Komoot
    Click on this picture to open the walk on Komoot
    Stats
    DifficultyModerate+ – Technical skills are not required but requires a good level of fitness and appropriate footwear
    Length11 mi – 17.7 km
    Total elevation2,234 ft – 680m
    Highest point1,125 ft – 343m
    Walking timec. 5h00
    Terrainmostly country lanes and grassy footpath. Some forest path and some uneven terrain in the gorge
    EquipmentGood boots, those are essential for the muddy Parts in the moors as well as the rocky section in the woods. A map or GPS. Plenty of water and snacks to sustain you through c. 5 hours of Exercise.
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    This 11 mile circular walk from Uppergate Farm to Holmfirth was the perfect blend of countryside charm and hearty hospitality. The day began with a gentle hello to the resident animals at the farm before setting off through rolling hills and winding country lanes straight out of Last of the Summer Wine. A mid-morning stop at the Carding Shed served up coffee, cake, and a nostalgic peek at classic cars. From there, the route dipped into woodland paths leading into Holmfirth, where Sunday lunch at The Pickled Pheasant offered a delicious reward. With plenty of hills to walk it off, I continued on to the Boshaw Trout for a well-earned pint of real ale, before one last woodland stretch through Dean Wood ended the day with a final stop at The Butcher’s Arms in Hepworth — the perfect toast to a classic Yorkshire wander.

    Getting there
    • Driving: On street parking in Hepworth
    • Public transport:
    • From Manchester: Train to Huddersfield and bus to Hepworth (c. 1h45)
    • From Leeds: Train to Huddersfield and bus to Hepworth (c. 1h50)

    Watering Holes
    • The Carding Shed Cafe – Choppards (c. 3 miles into the walk)
      A retro‑themed experience that feels like stepping into a bygone era. Styled in 1950s and 60s retro motor chic.
      The menu focuses on locally sourced produce, whether you’re enjoying a hearty lunch or a slice of cake. All the cakes are home-made and the two we did try were absolutely delicious. It is dog-friendly and even offers pet blankets you can borrow.
      There is an exhibition of classic cars, bikes and vans from the 1930’s onwards.
    • The Pickled Pheasant – Holmbridge (Half way through the walk)
      A beautifully refurbished 18th‑century coaching inn and gastropub.
      Food is home-made and absolutely delicious. We enjoyed a full Sunday Roast.
      The service is welcoming and friendly, yet efficient.
      There is a cosy fire-place to warm yourself up in winter. It is dog-friendly.
    • The Boshaw Trout– Hade Edge (c. 8.5 miles into the walk)
      A welcoming, independent, family-run pub.
      The sunny beer garden offers stunning views over the Holme Valley and Boshaw Whams Reservoir.
      Inside, the pub is decorated to modern standards but still exudes warmth with roaring fires and a cosy atmosphere.
      It offers a selection of up to six cask ales from the local Nook Brewhouse.
    • The Butcher’s Arms– Hepworth (at the end of the walk)
      A quintessential Yorkshire village pub. It has preserved its traditional features, including stone floors, wooden beams, and a welcoming open fire.
      We had dinner there on the first night of our stay at Uppergate Farm and enjoyed the food.
      You will find outdoor seating at the front and back of the pub. Including covered and sheltered tables at the back.


    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay

    For a camping week-end: The Rising Sun Farm Campsite (near the route and 20 mins walk to Holmfirth)
    Offers basic camping spaces for tents as well as pitches with electric hookups for camper vans and caravans.
    There are toilets and shower facilities.
    But note that no fires are allowed on the site.

    For a romantic and luxurious Glamping week-end: Uppergate Farm, Hepworth (at the start of the route)
    We stayed in the Safari Tent.
    Equipped with a king sized bed, a cozy seating area anchored by a log-burning stove, and a fully equipped kitchen. It even has its own ensuite bathroom, complete with a walk-in shower, flushing toilet, and hot water on demand.
    Outside, the covered deck is fully private thanks to the smart hedging. With a private hot-tub and a firepit for evening BBQ ideal for unwinding after your outdoors adventures.
    Deanwood Safari Tent offers the perfect mix of back-to-nature peacefulness and thoughtful luxury—ideal for couples seeking a memorable glamping escape


    For a quiet and comfortable stay: Coddy’s Farm between Holmbridge and Hade Edge (on the route)
    Housed in a historic building, it offers a unique and charming setting.
    There are 6 spacious and ensuite rooms
    Breakfast is prepared each morning from fresh ingredients, using their farm produce where possible

    For a self-catering family week or week-end: Uppergate Farm, Hepworth (at the start of the route)
    As well as the glamping units; the Farm has several cottages to rent. The various units accommodates between 2 to 10 people
    Perfect for a self-catering family trip. Some have private hot-tubs.
    All guests at the farm can make use of the indoor swimming pool and sauna. And there is a playground for the children.
    Furthermore there are a few farm animals to visits, always great fun for both parents and children.
    You can buy fresh-eggs from the farm’s free-range hens and several other produced made on the farm.

  • Pen-y-Ghent, the long way: a peak, a pint, a collapsed cavern and a French Patisserie – 16 miles from Austwick, Yorkshire Dales

    Pen-y-Ghent is one of the Yorkshire Three Peaks, standing at 694 meters (2,277 feet), it the lowest of the three. Its distinctive shape and dramatic, tiered appearance makes it the most visually striking.
    As we were looking for a longer walk, without doing the three peaks; we started in the village of Austwick. Resulting in a 16 miles circular route combining wild limestone country, green fields with lambs, scars and caves (including Hull Pot) and a more solitary approach compared to the classic Horton circuit.

    Pen-y-Ghent is one of the Yorkshire Three Peaks, standing at 694 meters (2,277 feet), it the lowest of the three. Its distinctive shape and dramatic, tiered appearance makes it the most visually striking. As we were looking for a longer walk, without doing the three peaks; we started in the village of Austwick. Resulting in a 16 miles circular route combining wild limestone country, green fields with lambs, scars and caves (including Hull Pot) and a more solitary approach compared to the classic Horton circuit.
    Click on the image above to see the walk-through video
    Pen-y-Ghent is one of the Yorkshire Three Peaks, standing at 694 meters (2,277 feet), it the lowest of the three. Its distinctive shape and dramatic, tiered appearance makes it the most visually striking. As we were looking for a longer walk, without doing the three peaks; we started in the village of Austwick. Resulting in a 16 miles circular route combining wild limestone country, green fields with lambs, scars and caves (including Hull Pot) and a more solitary approach compared to the classic Horton circuit.
    Click on this picture to open the full route on Komoot

    Stats
    DifficultyStrenuous – Technical skills are not required but some level of experience in hiking is necessary, a good level of fitness and appropriate footwear
    Length16 mi – 25.75 km
    Total elevation2,943 ft – 897m
    Highest point2,277 ft – 694m
    Walking time6h00
    Terrainmostly footpaths, gravel tracks, a small section of road and a very short of mountain path That some people describe as a scramble
    EquipmentGood boots, those are essential for the muddy Parts in the fields as well as the rocky section of Pen-y-Ghent. Plenty of layers, the weather can be mild in the valley but very windy and chilly at The top. A map or GPS. Plenty of water and snacks to sustain you through c. 5 hours of Exercise.
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or other apps.
    Click here for the link on Komoot

    Getting there
    • Driving: On street parking in Austwick Village
    • Public transport: Bus from Giggleswick train station
    • From Lancaster: bus to Kirkby Lonsdale then bus to Austwick (c. 1h40)
    • From Leeds: Train to Giggleswick then bus to Austwick (c. 1h30)https://www.komoot.com/tour/2133823803

    Watering Holes
    • The Helwith Bridge Inn – Helwith Bridge (c. 3.5 miles into the walk)
      A great little traditional country pub serving good home cooked food with a warm welcome
      Outdoor seating, including some overlooking the river for the summer and cosy fireplace in winter.
      Everyone is welcome including wet and muddy dogs. You will find yourself in the company of walkers, climbers, cavers, and cyclists amongst others, as well as the locals of Helwith Bridge and Horton in Ribblesdale.
      Accommodation offered on the campsite and bunk barn (see below for details)
    • The Game Cock Inn – Austwick (Start / end of the walk)
      A Traditional Country pub with a genuine French bakery, thanks to Eric, the French Chef / owner.
      Food is home-made and offers traditional English pub fayre as well as genuine French food such as onion soup and duck confit parmentier. With the exception of Sundays, for the traditional roast (including vegan options).
      It opens at 8:00 am for breakfast with traditional butties, hot-drinks and French pastries.
      There is a sunny beer garden and other outside seating for the summer. A cosy fire-place to warm yourself up in winter.


    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay

    For a basic camping week-end: The Helwith Inn offers basic camping spaces for tents as well as a small bunk house for 4 people.
    Toilets are at the side of the pub and there is a cold water only tap.
    The bunk barn has a fridge, kettle and basic cooking facilities. You need to bring your sleeping bag and bedding

    For a camping week-end with electric hookups: Silloth House Campsite near Austwick
    If you have a camper van or caravan, the site offers pitches with electric hookups.
    It also has toilets and shower blocks.
    There are soft pitches for tents.

    For a camping week-end with pods: Buckden camping Heber Farm, Buckden.
    A small campsite on a farm.
    The 3 camping pods include: lighting, heating, electricity, kettles, a mattress covered seating area which folds down to create a sleeping platform, outdoor seating and access to fridge
    They also have soft pitches for tent, some with electric hookup.
    And 5 pitches for camper van and 2 caravan pitches. All grass surface with electric hookups
    All guests have access to: toilet, warm shower and a communal fridge.
    You’ll also find a pub a few minutes walk away.


    For a quiet and comfortable stay: The Game Cock Inn – Austwick
    The pub has 5 B&B rooms.
    Delicious cooked breakfast is included in the price of the night.
    But the French chef / owner also runs a genuine French bakery downstairs.
    Food is home-cooked and absolutely delicious. (see section above for more details)
    All rooms are ensuite and sleep between 1-4.
    The pub also offer a self-catering cottage with 3 bedrooms.
    If you come by public transport, there is a shuttle service to the train station of Clapham.

    For a luxurious and romantic week-end: The Traddock Hotel
    A is a small family run 5 star hotel. Set as a typical country house with Georgian and Victorian rooms.
    Each rooms are individually designed and the award winning restaurant offers first class food using the best locally sourced ingredients.

  • Studley Royal: a 9 mile walk in North Yorkshire (Nidderdale AONB) with several historical buildings

    Studley Royal is a 800 acres Park, that includes an 18th Century landscaped garden, the ruins of Fountains Abbey, Fountains Hall Jacobean mansion and St Mary’s Church.
    Fountains Abbey is the best preserved ruined Cistercian monastery in England. Now in UNESCO’s world heritage site list and managed by National Trust. For the fans of more modern history, the location was used in OMD’s Maid of Orlean’s music clip. And Fountains Hall was built between 1598 and 1611.
    St Mary’s Church – a stunning Victorian Gothic Revival Church designed by William Burges. The inside is particularly impressive.
    This walk also takes us to Markenfield Hall a beautiful moated manor house which is still inhabited by the family and can open to the public for 32 days each year
    As we did this walk in the winter, we did not have time to visit all those fascinating places; but hoping to go back in Summer and combine the walk with a full tour.

    The walks takes you on a 9 mile in Nidderdale AONB, in North Yorkshire. Starting at Studley Royal Park, near RIppon and Harrogate. It includes several historical buildings. This includes Fountains Abbey, St Mary's Church and Fountains Hall.
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video
    The walks takes you on a 9 mile in Nidderdale AONB, in North Yorkshire. Starting at Studley Royal Park, near RIppon and Harrogate. It includes several historical buildings. This includes Fountains Abbey, St Mary's Church and Fountains Hall.

    Click on the image above to be take to the route on Komoot – Feel free to ask me for links on other walking apps

    Stats
    DifficultyModerate
    Length9.5 mi – 15.3 km
    Total elevation1,529 ft – 476m
    Highest point560 ft – 171m
    Walking time4h15
    Terrainmostly footpaths, hiking paths, and some road
    EquipmentGood boots, it can get muddy in Places. Enough water to last you for 4 hours. Plenty of snacks as there are no cafe facilities en route (except start and end point). a good map or gPS
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or other apps.
    Click here for Komoot Link

    Getting there
    • Driving: National Trust car-park at the start point.
    • Public transport: Take the train to Harrogate then bus to Studley Royal

    Watering Holes
    • Several options from National Trust – at start / finish
      The Visitor Centre Restaurant: serves a range of seasonal food.  If you’re not feeling peckish, you can simply enjoy a cup of tea, coffee or hot chocolate. Indoor and outdoor seating is available
      Studley Tearoom: perfect if you’re looking for a light bite or a cup of tea before your walk. Grab a quick lunch or snack to enjoy inside the tea-room or on the outdoor tables overlooking the lake. 
      The Mill Cafe: the place to go for a light bite to eat, sweet treat and a drink if you’re exploring the area by the abbey. With seating inside and benches outside, it’s the perfect spot for enjoying the lovely view across the green.
    • The Water Rat – Rippon – 2.5 miles from the start
      A fab pub only a short drive away(9 mins) from the end of the walk.
      For the long distance walkers, it would add 5 miles there and back or about 1 hr.

    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

    Make a weekend of it. 

    Nidderdale is classed as an Area of Outstanding Beauty and there are many walks there.
    Alternatively, Harrogate is a wonderful place to spend the week-end. It has a wide range of place to eat and drink. Independent shops and for more cultural activities you can visit the Turkish Bath.


    For luxury glamping: Yurtshire Glamping
    They have 2 different locations which are only 2 miles apart in the area.
    Each yurts have en-suite bathrooms with hot-showers. And private hot-tubs outside.
    They all come with kitchenette and fire-pits / barbecues.
    Each yurts sleep up to 4 people.
    Requires a 2 nights minimum stay at week-end but can be booked for single nights from Sun-Thur.


    For self-catering options: Several cottages and appartement options – Ripon
    Booking.com offers an array of options


    For a cosy stay: The Royal Oak – Ripon
    A gastro-pub with reasonably priced room for the area.
    They have 3 rooms (double or king) and DBB options available.

    For larger groups: Chorister House
    A 5 bedroom luxury property belonging to the National Trust.
    It needs a 3 nights booking minimum but would work out at c. £50-70 / night / pp

  • Hardcastle Crags, near Hebden Bridge – A lovely walk under 10 miles in Yorkshire with a pub

    Hardcastle Crags is a stunning wooded valley near Hebdgen Bridge in West Yorkshire. It is part of the South Pennines. You will explore a wide variety of flora and fauna in its woodland. And there are a range of facilities, including an old cotton mill now turned into a cafe. There is an interesting willow sculpture of a horse that reminds us of the area’s industrial past and use of similar horses to work the woodland and a couple of waterfalls.

    10 Miles in West Yorkshire Hardcastle Crags is a stunning wooded valley near Hebdgen Bridge in West Yorkshire. It is part of the South Pennines. You will explore a wide variety of flora and fauna in its woodland. And there are a range of facilities, including an old cotton mill now turned into a cafe. There is an interesting willow sculpture of a horse that reminds us of the area's industrial past and use of similar horses to work the woodland and a couple of waterfalls.
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

    Stats
    DifficultyModerate
    Length9.7 mi – 15.6 km
    Total elevation1,371 ft – 418m
    Highest point886 ft – 270m
    Walking time4h00
    TerrainPaths and footpaths
    EquipmentGood shoes, it can get muddy in places.
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

    Getting there
    • Driving: Car Park in Heptonstall
    • Public transport:
      From Manchester: Train from Victoria to Hebden Bridge and bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane (Heptonstall) (< 1h)
      From Leeds: Train to Hebden Bridge and bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane, Heptonstall (1h)
      From York: Train to Leeds then train to Hebden Bridge and bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane, Heptonstall (1h50)
      From Chester: Direct train to Hebden Bridge and bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane (Heptonstall) (1h55)
      From Preston: Direct train to Hebden Bridgend bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane (Heptonstall) (1h30)
      From Sheffield: Train to Leeds then rain to Hebden Bridge and bus 596 to Towngate Churn Lane, Heptonstall (1h55)

    Watering Holes
    • The red Lion – Heptonstall – at the beginning or end of the walk.
      A fab traditional village pub with good selection of real ales.
      Sunny beer garden in the summer and roaring wood-fire in winter.
      The food is home-made and offers classic pub fayre, including roast dinners on Sundays.
      Check with the venue for kitchen hours but note the pub is closed on Mon-Tue and does not open until 15:00 on Wednesdays.

    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

    Hebden Bridge is a very vibrant town with a many artists and a solid New Age community.
    The lesbian community is also very solid and one of the largest per capita in England. The community was a pioneer in promoting homonormative culture.
    British Airways magazine has named Hebden Bridge as the 4th quirkiest town in the world to live in. And you will find a wide range of places to eat and drink.
    For music and TV lovers, the town was used by Talk Talk, The Dream Academy and Haddaway for their music clips. Then used for the TV show Happy Valley. And Ed Sheeran grew up in the town.
    Whilst property prices are really high; cost of accommodation for the night are reasonable.

    For the budget conscious: IOU Hebden Bridge vegetarian hostel
    The rooms are very comfortable and reasonably priced. The 6 bed dorm I stayed in (exclusive use for two people) was ensuite with separate loo and shower. The staff was incredibly friendly and welcoming and the self-use kitchen comes in very handy to store food for your hike the next day. The outdoor and indoor common spaces are very comfortable.

    For some luxury or a romantic week-end: The White Lion Inn – Hebden Bridge
    Not to be confused with the White Lion Pub in Heptonstall.
    The rooms are furnished with quality and attention to details. They are very comfortable.
    Fantastic location as it is at the heart of everything: Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops

    For a cosy B&B: Hebble End View B&B – Hebden Bridge
    Excellent value and incredibly cosy.
    There are only two rooms, the bathroom is shared and breakfast is served in the room.
    But the owner is very friendly and the breakfast hearty and high quality.


  • The Howgills and Cautley Spout – The highest waterfall in England

    This hike takes in the Calf (highest point in the Howgill Fells) and Cautley Spout (The highest waterfall in England). The Howgills are in Cumbria, but they are part of the Yorkshire Dale National Park.
    The calf is not part of the 214 Wainwright but Alfred Wainwright enjoyed this route and described it as “The classic high-level walk on the Howgill Fells”

    This 10 miles hike takes in the Calf (highest point in the Howgill Fells) and Cautley Spout (The highest waterfall in England). The Howgills are in Cumbria, but they are part of the Yorkshire Dale National Park. The calf is not part of the 214 Wainwright but Alfred Wainwright enjoyed this route and described it as "The classic high-level walk on the Howgill Fells"
    Click on the picture to see the full slideshow and route video

    Stats
    DifficultyStrenuous
    Length9.9 mi – 15.9 km
    Total elevation2,654 ft – 809m
    Highest point2,221 ft – 677m
    Walking time4h20
    TerrainPaths and footpaths
    EquipmentGood shoes, the path can get muddy in places and the rocks could be slippy. Sufficient water to last you for 9.5 miles or About 5 hours. Layers As the top can get exposed and windy
    View route (Click on menu to reveal the image)
    Send me a message on social media or email to request the GPX file, AllTrails or Komoot link

    Getting there
    • Driving: Car Park on the A683 by after Sedbergh
    • Public transport:
      From Carlisle: Train to Oxenholme and bus S1 or 563 to Sedbergh (c. 1h20)
      From Lancaster: Train to Oxenholme and bus S1 or 563 to Sedbergh (c. 45)
      From Manchester: Train from Piccadilly to Oxenholme and bus S1 or 563 to Sedbergh (c. 2hrs)
      From Preston: Train to Oxenholme and bus S1 or 563 to Sedbergh (c. 1h00)

    Watering Holes
    • The Cross Key Temperance Inn – About 3.5 miles into the walk if you started at the car-park – or 5 miles if you started in Sedbergh
      A very cosy cafe and book-store in a 400 years old Inn.
      Great stop for coffee and cake before climbing the fall. The scones are home-made.
      If you are stopping for lunch you will find soup, bacon sandwiches and classic pub fayre.
      Note it does not serve alcohol and call ahead of time to ensure it is open during your visit.
    • The Thirsty Rambler – Sedbergh
      This is a fabulous micro-bar. Muddy paws and boots are always welcome.
      All ales and larger are sourced from small local suppliers.
      A very friendly place where you will find fellow hikers. As the place is so small it operates on a first come first seat basis.
      Don’t be offended if someone you have never met before sits next you and start up a conversation; it is that kind of place !
      No food served unless you pre-book the whole place. And opening hours are very restricted. Check the website ahead of time to ensure it is open at the time of your visit.

    Make a week-end of it – Where to stay and eat

    Sedbergh is home to a famous boarding school. But not a bad place to spend the week-end. It is on the Dales Way.
    Although a very small town, there are a few pubs, inns and cafes. And the Howgills will offer plenty of walking and cycling routes for your week-end.

    For large groups: Sedbergh Barn – Sedbergh
    For whole property rental only. The barn will sleep 35 in 8 bunk rooms.
    There is a 2 nights rental minimum.
    Quite a luxury barn: hot-tub, game room and drying room.
    Each rooms have an ensuite and there are extra toilets on the landing.
    Two kitchens and a large dining area.

    For a romantic week-end: The Dalesman Country Inn – Sedbergh
    Luxury accommodation and 2 AA rosette restaurant.
    An old coaching Inn with 6 rooms, all furnished individually and with luxurious soft-furnitures and bedding.
    Slightly more expensive than the other inn in town but the small difference is worth it in my opinion.
    For lunch, expect traditional pub fayre at reasonable price. For dinner, there is the option of the classic fish and chips or more gastro dishes such as venison loin when in season.

    For a cosy cottage: The Old Chair Workshop – Sedbergh
    A cosy little studio cottage that sleeps 2 in a double bed.
    Please note there is no internet !

    For the Camper: Farm & Fell Camping – Sedbergh
    Open from Easter to August.
    There are 3 fields: family, classic and quiet (no noise on the quiet field between 20:00-8:00)
    The campsite will accept tents, camper vans and motorhomes. Each pitches has a fire-pit.
    It offers communal showers. Serves hot-food at certain hours from the farm-yard and a bar with live music in busy periods